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hseanz12
01-18-2012, 12:53 PM
Is this the right way to frame this roof? I can't find any information on a trapezoid shaped roof and this is my best guess. Any input would be appreciated.

The only place this shed will fit in my yard is in a corner with this type of building angle. I've attached a photo for reference. The shed that was in its place was a 12x12 with a lean attached to it(In the photo bottom right), but it was almost 30 years old and awkward to move around in so i tore it down. Anyway, what I don't want is to leave the space in the corner open to collect water and dirt and what not( third photo, dark areas are perimeter walls to the property). Am I completely off the mark or am I going in the right direction?

Im a DIY'er and have never attempted to build a shed but I've done my homework and with the right planning Im sure I can pull it off.

Don_P
01-18-2012, 02:02 PM
That would work. It needs lookouts from rafter perpendicular to fly rafter. The overhang on that side could be quite small if this is the lot line. Do check setbacks.

The rafter ties are too few and too high. The shallower the roof pitch the greather the spreadfing force trying to pancake the roof. Ties should be on every rafter pair and would be best if dropped down as low as possible, the plate.

hseanz12
01-18-2012, 09:50 PM
Don, thank you for the reply. Just so i'm on the same page, you are talking about the first photo and not the third, correct? The third photo is what I don't want.

Don_P
01-19-2012, 04:08 AM
Correct, the first would work IMO. A prow fronted house would be framed this way just symmetrically.

hseanz12
01-19-2012, 06:40 AM
Sounds good... I will add more ties and raise the pitch. I want to keep my ties as high as possible to max head space. I will do some research on that. Thanks again

Don_P
01-19-2012, 06:30 PM
Code on tie height is to keep them in the lower third of roof height. As they are raised it does two things. The raised tie puts a bending force into the rafter where it is attached requiring the next size up sometimes as the tie is raised. Secondly the force in the tie to rafter connection increases as the tie is raised requiring more nails in the connection. The footnotes to the rafter span tables in chapter 8 of the codebook give the particulars.

hseanz12
01-19-2012, 08:24 PM
Im sure you've answered this question one to many times but what is your opinion on the ridge beam? I've seen a number of variations and styles. My plan is to build the roof in two sections and hoisting them up with the help of some friends. Is this approach wrong? I live in far west texas and see only about 1 inch of snow a year and winds no higher than 60mph. I'm sure there are many more factors that need to be considered as well.

Do you think I can get away with a double 2"x6"x18' ridge with double 2x4's holding it up on the ends as well as 2x4 rafters. Or should i spend the extra money and do it better 2x12' and 2x6's.

Don_P
01-20-2012, 05:05 PM
I wouldn't assemble it that way myself. The old tried and true, raise the ridge and attach the rafters, is safer and easier.

What are the dimensions of the building?

hseanz12
03-05-2012, 01:30 PM
Just wanted to update the post. I went ahead and started building and I know its not perfect but for my first time building project I think it came out very well.

Don_P
03-05-2012, 07:58 PM
Good job, a square one will be a breeze, not an easy first project.