Replacing roof on older home: concerns and questions

[geninfo@gmail.com]

I am a new homeowner replacing a roof of an older home (not particularly distinctive) in Northeastern PA. I have a basic budget and am trying to make the right decisions to avoid problems and more costs down the road. I have been reading on-line and asking for advice from various people. Here is the info I've come up with (and related questions I have). I know it’s a lot, please bear with me.

1) Roofing: 1) GAF Timberline. I'm thinking of going with the 30 yr warranty. Any comments? Pro or con?

2) Venting. I am going with ridge venting with eave soffits for venting (the soffits are already there). I've read about GAF cobra ridge venting (it looks like mesh) and the Cobra Ridge Vet II, and Cobra Snow Country and finally the 10" aluminum ridge vents. Three people have told me that the problem with the Cobra mesh is that you can't clean it once it gets stuffed up with insects, dust and pollen and it has the additional problem of retaining moisture. They say, the aluminum, on the other hand, allows for free flow of air and that there really is no problem with bugs, dust and pollen if you put in end/connector plugs. Does anyone have any experience over time with these products? And recommend one over the other?

3) Sheathing: there is black mold on the bottom side of the sheathing, visible from the attic. It's been suggested that I either spray with a 1/10 solution of clorox and water and it will disappear or I should replace the sheathing that has the mold (about 1/2 the total roof area). Would you recommend spraying it or replacing the sheathing?

My contractor estimated that cost as $1.50/sf for 1/2 inch plywood decking (which would equal $48 per 4x8 sheet of ½ inch sheet). Then he added a line about all wood repairs being labor at $30/hour plus materials (cost plus 25%). This seems high since home depot has 3/4 inch plywood at Home Depot is less than the $1.50/sf quote he gave me (I think it was about $24-$26 sheet). I’ll have to recheck.

4) Total cost: The total cost for the job (including removing a chimney from the attic floor up) was about $8000 plus the above wood costs. I’m figuring that it will end up costing about $10,000. I want to do it right the first time so I am not plagued with problems. That’s a big chunk of my budget, but is it about right? Each floor of the house is about 900 sf. I don’t know what the roof area or slant of the roof is. There are two porches about 6 x 10 each.

5) Gutters: I was told that I may as well get new gutters (seamless) at the same time since it is 'relatively inexpensive' to do if I use the same cont5ractors.

6) Contractor contract: I found the roofing contractor because he did a neighbor’s roof. He seems like a nice guy; I’d like to stick with him if there’s no reason not to. He subcontracts out the work. He’s been doing this for about 3 yrs. He is authorized by GAF but not an elite master. He gave me a written proposal listing most of the things we discussed but not a ‘contract’ that we both sign. I’m concerned about this and have read and been told to have ‘it all in writings’ so there’s no misunderstanding. I went on-line and found a contractor agreement by a company called ‘Socrates.’ It appears to be good and asks for evidence of workman’s comp and liability insurance etc. Any advice on having a written agreement and what should be included in it?

If you have responses to any or all of my questions, I would appreciate hearing from you soon.

Thanks

[Rich]

1 - GAF shingles are decent.
2 - If you have concerns with a product - then don't use it. It's much easier to sleep when there are no concerns. IMO - if the product has a decent warranty then it probably does it's job. Make sure the contractor installs it per manufacturers directions.
3 - this is another one of them concerns - I would replace it if it were mine.
4 - Doesn't seem bad for the scope of work.
5 - Go for it
6 - No need for concern - it's just a proposal. Most likely he'll finalize the whole thing with a contract. If not, request that he use your contract. It's a good idea to make sure you have current GL and work comp insurance. No matter how nice the guy is - make sure you have a contract before starting.

[grumpydasmurf]

GAF is a good shingle. I can think of none better.

Aluminum is very tacky and can blow off easy. If you don't use the original cobra, use the cobra II. CObra II is basically the same as the aluminum, with some added features, and it stays put because you shingle over it. NO ridge vent is easily cleanable. Ridge vent should only be used when there is adequate ridge line to ventilate the appropriate attic space. I've seen ridge vent used on under sized roof systems too often.

We usually spray 1/1 or 50/50 (samt hing) when we spray mold... Depending on how bad the mold really is, you may need to replace whole boards. Usually when a board is moldy it's also weak structuraly and should be replaced. We usually charge $45 for 1 4'x8' sheet of plywood (32 square feet). We charge by the half sheet. There is alot involved in installing plywood. Cut the old and dispose. Cut the new and install. Buy the plywood deliver the plywood, lift the plywood onto the roof. At $45 we make $5 profit per sheet. We've done the math many times.

We charge $55 per hour for additional carpentry like framing etc...

I don't know the size of your roof so I can't comment on price. Every roof is different. Please post pics and measurements if you want a price.

Always get multiple estimates IMO. Never go on your first estimate, without comparing it to something. I supose this could be considered yoru comparison. I pretty much write a very detailed contract. If the contractor is serious about doing for what what he verbally stated, he should have no problem with a contract revision or ammendment. To us roofers some things seem common place so we don't bring it up.

if you are using a contract that you found on the internet I encourage you to have alawyer look it over... but a contract can be a very simple thing. MY contracts really are. Scope of work on the front, terms of service on the back. Everything is plain english and both parties' responsibilites are clearly written.