12:12 Pitch I need a plan

[mreynolds]

I have done several roofs in the past years, but they have all been a low pitch. The house I am building is 12:12. What is the best way to install my tar paper and singles without falling off the roof? What I am stuck on is how to install supports to stand on without making holes in the roof. I have seen pros use 2x4 strips to stand on the tar paper, but what about the holes they leave? Also, how do you use roof jacks without leaving nails holes in the roof either? :roll:

[Rich]

I've used a modified ladder that hangs over the ridge of the roof - it looks a little odd but works great. But honestly I wouldn't worry too much about holes in the roof. The tar paper honestly isn't there to give protection against water penetration as much as it is there to put a break between the roofing material and the sheeting and allow it to expand and contract.
Think of the right way to do wood floors. Subfloor, tarpaper, wood floor. The tarpaper doesn't do much more than to allow the wood to expand/contract with squeaking against the subfloor.

Grumpy will probably have a better/more ideas on this.

[grumpydasmurf]

The ridge ladder works well also install the 2x4's with roof jacks. Roof jacks can be installed and shingled over then removed with no damage to the roof. Hard to explain but if you go to your supply house and ask for roof jacks they will show you how to install them. I could show you but honestly wouldn't know how to tell you.

LOL I have seen roofs where the guys forgot to remove the jacks! I took some pics and show home owners saying. We didn't do this roof!

[Rich]

That's funny.
That would be hard to explain about the roof jacks without a picture or something.

[grumpydasmurf]

Yeah best answer I can give about the jacks is you roof over them and then remove them later. Removing them is not a problem.

[mreynolds]

Is that what that slats are for at the top of the roof jacks? Then you just slip them out.

[grumpydasmurf]

Yep, tap the bottom of the jacks with your hammer and they come loose. Peel the shingle up a little bit and hammer the nail down. Then press the shingle back down.

[ceilingcrawler]

What about doing work on an existing roof? Do I just nail the roof anchor thru the ashpalt shingles and hope I hit a rafter (presumably, the nails on which the anchor rests should be on a rafter)? After I'm done and remove the anchor, do I just tar up the holes?

[grumpydasmurf]

Ouchy no! Try to find the rafter by looking at the fascia for nail heads. Measure the distance from the edge of the roof and this gives you a general idea. You can also use a stud finder. If it's plywood just walk around and you will know where the rafters are. Plywood is generally spongy.

Peel UP thew shingle. SLide a pry bar under it to break the seal. Nail the jacks and let the shingle lay ON the jacks, then do as instructed in my previous post to remove the jacks. You may need to put a few dabs of cement under the shingle so it sets properly since they may be old.

[ceilingcrawler]

Okay. My plan is to set up a platform using ladder jacks. Put screws in for the roof jacks (instead of nails, because I might have to go up again), put the 2x4s in place and get onto the roof. My next question: what about an anchor somewhere above this so I can attach a rope? Someone mentioned that he just puts a rope around the chimney (the chimney is right above one of the areas I'll be working). In other areas, I'm considering finding a rafter, lifting the shingle and installing an anchor. Do you guys use these things?

[grumpydasmurf]

This is fine if your chimney is stable. Make sure you buya harness that wraps around your body. Don't just tie a rope around your waist. Her is OSHA's web site for fall protection: http://osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owasrch.new_search_results?p_text=fall%20protectio n&p_title=&in_clause='FULL_SITE'&p_status=CURRENT&p_category=&p_logger=1

Happy reading!

[Jedadiah]

We put on 2x4 toe board as we sheet and then felt from the top down, making sure the felt laps right. That way there aren't any holes in the felt, and the roofer doesn't have to spend all day prying off toe boards. Generally we felt the bottom run of plywood after it's put on, and before sheeting the rest of the roof, because no one likes standing on the bottom toe board, hamming caps nails in around their ankles. This way the the holes from the toe boards can be out over the overhang and won't leak into the house, before shingles are put on.

Maybe we just have crazy roofer in central KY, but almost all the houses have high pitched rooves and almost no roofer uses saftey harnesses. Mostly the walk up the valleys, or sit on their knees on the foam from couch cusions. It won't slide off the roof and they don't slide of it. I'm not about to try it, but the roofer do it all the time.

[Rich]

Yeah - it used to be done like that all over the place. Then one guy falls and pretty soon OSHA has an office down the street.. hah.

[grumpydasmurf]

All the saftey equipment slows you down whenr your rofoing and some of it makes things unsafe in my opinion. We almost have to beg our guys to wear the saftey harnesses. Toe boards are a must, just incase you do lose your footing you don't fall over the edge. Let's face it, you have to be a little bit nuts to be a full time roofer.

[mreynolds]

yeah, and the iron workers on high rises used to run around on steel girders with no harnesses either, not for me. By the way, after I calculated to 35 different angles I would have to cut for this roof, we went to roof trusses!

[Rich]

Right on.. it's definately the easiest way and it's fully engineered for each truss. Shed the risk I always say.