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dawell0
11-17-2004, 05:45 AM
Our contractor "accidentally" put damp proofing on our basement foundation. We had in the contract that it was supposed to be waterproofing (rubberized). Now he wants to apply the waterproofing over top of the damp proofing. The contractor/subcontractor was not willing to tell us the name of the product that was used (in fact he lied and said that it was neither damp proofing or waterproofing but the subcontractor told us it was damp proofing). I'm concerned that the entire reason that I didn't want damp proofing--that it peels off over time--will still happen and take off the rubberized waterproofing as well. What do you recommend? Thanks for everyone's expert advice.

Rich
11-17-2004, 06:03 AM
I would probably opt for a rubberized sheet good that gets taped at the seams. Some of this stuff can be laid over the foundation and attached at the top with a galvanized bar that's tap conned into the foundation.

mjpliv
11-18-2004, 03:56 AM
I would probably opt for a rubberized sheet good that gets taped at the seams. Some of this stuff can be laid over the foundation and attached at the top with a galvanized bar that's tap conned into the foundation.

Just in case the question gets asked -

Tapcons are a brand name of concrete fastener that works by drilling a slightly undersized hole in the concrete and using a self-tapping concrete screw. Get the ones that use nut drivers instead of the philips head.

dawell0
11-18-2004, 04:15 AM
So, you would opt for a sheet of rubber rather than a spray-on substance with rubber? Would it still work with the damp proofing that was already sprayed on there? Code here is just tar spray in a thin layer and drainage at the footers with the pebbles and plastic pipes. I think that the tar spray is all that we have, and I must add that it is sprayed very thin in areas, except where the cracks are. They also are making the house the highest part of the lot in the front (about 3 ft above the street) and there is a street drainage ditch so water will be better than in other areas.

By the way, if this foundation comes down (there are other major problems--see horror stories section if you are interested), what would you recommend for the new foundation? This is a walkout basement, somewhat clay soil in the front, but the topography allows for good drainage downhill.

Rich
11-18-2004, 05:01 AM
I only mention doing sheet goods due to your concerns of the dampproofing peeling. Bentonite rolled sheets are an excellent waterproofing membrane. As soon as water touches it the bentonite swells and becomes impermeable.
The best method IMO, as I've stated in many other posts, is a spray on Procor (or similar) at 60mm thick with 2" rigid insulation over that with a drain board over that. Along with a perimeter drain.

MikeD
11-18-2004, 02:40 PM
I only mention doing sheet goods due to your concerns of the dampproofing peeling. Bentonite rolled sheets are an excellent waterproofing membrane. As soon as water touches it the bentonite swells and becomes impermeable.
The best method IMO, as I've stated in many other posts, is a spray on Procor (or similar) at 60mm thick with 2" rigid insulation over that with a drain board over that. Along with a perimeter drain.

Rich,
At what height do you bring the 2" rigid insulation up to? Above grade, terminate at top of foundation? I'm thinking out loud "IMO, that would look ugly unless you compensate for 2" by have a floor joist/rim overhang. That wouldn't work with brick veneer siding." Any suggestions' appreciated!

Rich
11-18-2004, 02:46 PM
Here's what the mfg recommends - page 1
http://quadlock.com/manual/Product_Manual_3d.pdf
You can then parge it, with brick siding you can bolt a ledger angle on easy enough (even pour it with the wall).

roger_northeast
12-07-2004, 09:55 PM
Rich,

I studied your recommendation on using the Quad-Lock system. I'm confused as to how you would apply the Procor waterproofing spray if these ICF forms are not removed after the concrete is poured?

Thanks.
Roger

Rich
12-22-2004, 01:25 PM
Huh - thought I had responded to this already - I wouldn't suggest doing Procor or spray applied over ICF's - only behind rigid insulation. I only used QuadLocks recommendation for the overhang detail.
Most ICF manufacturers have their own waterproofing recommendations - here is quadlocks - http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/manual/Product_Manual_678App.pdf

and the link above for overhang has been updated and should point here -
http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/manual/Product_Manual_3d.pdf