View Full Version : installation of laminate flooring
kramer
11-19-2004, 06:13 PM
We are planning on installing mannington laminate flooring in most of our main level. Is our OSB subfloor sufficient to install it over? There are some sections of the OSB that have swelled up. Should those be sanded down? or do they need to be replaced? Also if it is a floating floor do I need to have all my cabinets installed before installing the flooring?
doyle
11-19-2004, 06:41 PM
If you can sand it flat, then by all means do that. Otherwise, lay down a new layer of 1/4" luan plywood over the whole floor. The foam layer under the new floor will take up some of the imperfections, but not much.
Yes on installing the cabinets first.
Dragon
11-20-2004, 03:36 AM
I don't know where you live or what local pricing is but around here real hardwood floor is only about $1.00 more a foot than the laminated stuff.
doyle
11-20-2004, 03:49 AM
That's true, Dragon, but then you have the cost of finishing it and maintaining it. I like "real" wood floors, but on the other hand I also like that you have an instant floor once the laminate is completed.
All the laminate in my house came from Lumber Liquidators 3 years ago for 99 cents/sq ft and seems to be holding up extremely well, no wear at all.
Dragon
11-20-2004, 10:51 AM
No, I meant $1 more finished. $7.00 a foot for #1 installed and finished. Any halfway decent laminate is going to cost you $6.00 a foot installed.
In this area, that is. It may vary in different areas.
If you're looking to eventually resell I'd definately go with real wood.
kramer
11-21-2004, 10:54 AM
I would like real wood but the maintenance for my family (4 young kids and dog) would be incredibly difficult. I am also giong to do most of the installation so cost would be quite a bit less.
roger g
11-23-2004, 07:05 AM
I just did about 800 sq ft in the house that I'm renovating and it turned out pretty good. I started in one room then went into the hallway, down the hallway and into another room. The big problem was doorways and depending on how I went through the doorways ( whether the opening was parallel or perpendicular to the flow of the flooring) became a nightmare. Apparently I should have cut the door jambs back to the studs to give me the movement I needed to click sideways.
It's hard to explain but you will definitely know the problem if and when you get to that doorway.
roger
kramer
11-23-2004, 10:17 AM
Not sure what you mean by cutting the jams back to the studs. How would that be trimmed over after floor installation? I would have to go through door openings that are either parallel or perpendicular to the flooring planks. Any other tips for installation?
Dragon
11-23-2004, 03:12 PM
You cut the door jam and casing off to the level of the top of your flooring (that isn't in yet) so that the flooring can slide underneath. It is self-trimming.
doyle
11-23-2004, 03:18 PM
You will need to buy a jamb-saw. Home Depot or just about any hardware store carries it. It's just a special-use hand saw, probably under $20. You definitely want to buy the installation kit for the flooring and watch the video that's included before you get started.
roger g
11-23-2004, 04:01 PM
I bought one of those little saws and it worked great cutting the door trim but I sure wouldn't want to cut the 4 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch frame. Dragon ( strange name) explained it very good and Doyles tips are good.
Next time I will see if the rent shop has the special power saw that does the cutting of the door frame.
roger
Dragon
11-23-2004, 05:38 PM
Ok hold up and stop right there.
A Jamb saw, commonly known as a Jam B, is no saw for a novice at all. If you are going to use one do not under any circumstances ever try to hold the guard back. Trust me, you'll want to. Avoid this urge. Its far better to slide the saw sideways along the floor and let the guard open by itself even though odds are you'll eventually pinch it and it will kick sideways.
I wish someone would create one that operated like a biscuit joiner does because JamB's are dangerous.
I recommend using a shark saw and a large surfaced spacer block instead. It may take you a little longer but you'll still have your fingers.
Tom R
11-23-2004, 06:29 PM
Dragon,
I think he meant a 'hand' jamb-saw, but that's still some good info you provided.
roger g
11-23-2004, 08:10 PM
No, Dragon was right. I have a hand saw for that and was wondering about the power version. He gave some good tips. I'd like to try one anyways but at least now I'll be on alert.
roger
blogtim
11-24-2004, 12:43 PM
Laminate is pretty reasonable, in San Francisco the spread is even greater. Kramer, how did you end up choosing Mannington? Which ones did you look at?
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