Info with window install

[Ray]

Hello. I'm new to the forum. I'm building a garage and am putting in a 36x46 DH window. I ordered all my matierials from Home Depot. They sent me out a "replacement" window that doesn't have that nail in flange. Right now I have the window framed out to the RO with 2x4's and have 7/16 sheeting on the outside. I'm using D4 vynil siding to cover the garage. Not to sound too ignorant, but what do I have to do to the window opening in order to install this window...how far out does it stick out or in.. or should they have sent me a new construction double hung? Sorry if this is a green question, but it suits the builder.
:?:
Thanks Ray

[Rich]

Well I would've assumed they would send a flanged window.. anyway I would install it to the exterior at least the thickness of your trim or j channel.

[Ray]

That is what I was thinking... install it to the thickness of the siding. Well, you can't do that beacause of the design of the window. I'm assuming from your comment they make DH windows with the new construction flange..

thanks ,
ray

[Rich]

http://www.pella.com/resources/pdf/AS_Wood_Window.pdf

[Roostriz]

Hey Ray,
I just ran into the same problem with two windows I purchased for an addition to my kitchen, they ordered replacements instead of New Construction. I was thinking that maybe I should make a conventional frame for this window to sit in, but the other thing is that the base of the replacement is flat and I am wondering if I should not make a sloped sill due to this. What did you decide to do in your case?

[TnAndy]

IF it's not too late to help here, or for future reference, I use replacements in new construction for myself all the time......the reason I do so is because I can get real deals in "mis-measured" replacements.......I bought a pallet load of 'em from HomeDepot ( nearly all the windows in two houses ) for 50 bucks/window........don't ask me WHY they take them back, but this store does..and their top line replacements too.....LowE,Argon, the works....they are "close enough" to a stock size, and I just frame the hole to fit what I have.

What I do is install the window flush with the sheathing and use the pre-drilled holes in the side jambs of the window to install rather than a nailing flange. To finish off outside, I run make a sloped wood sill, and run a 2x2 around the rest to look like "brickmould".....then wrap all the exterior with trim coil bent on a brake. On the sill, I run the aluminum trim coil right under the sill of the vinyl window to make a positive "no leak" install.

My vinly siding or brick is installed up to this wrapped trim pc. I also use a Tapco brand "Brake Buddy" to form the coil with indentions to actually LOOK like brickmould, which makes for a neat install......I know you can rent brakes at the rentall places, and probably the BrakeBuddy tool as well.

I don't know if this has been mentioned here or not, so forgive a newbie for repeating if it has.....

When you run J channel or use channel built into vinyl windows, there is a point at the bottom corner of the window on the left and right side where the sill pc of channel meets the side pcs.......that is a GREAT place for a leak......water enters the channel at the top or sides, runs down the sides like a gutter, and since most folks just cut the pc of siding that hits the window bottom and stick it in the channel, the water has about as much chance going BEHIND the siding right at that corner as it does going out and over the exterior of the siding.........I've removed some sidings in remodels and was amazed how much rot I'm finding spread in an inverted "V" from that corner down the sheathing on both sides.....

SO, what I do now is install a piece of 30lb felt UNDER the channel, and let it lap out over the top of the nailing flange of the last pc of siding before the pc that gets cut for the window. Any water that runs down the channel now and gets behing that window cutout piece will run on the tarpaper, and out over the top of the pc below.

Just my 2 cents on the subject.