Roof truss bearing points

[iowaboy]

I've viewed this site many times and have been impressed with the advice. This, however, is my first post and I hope it makes sense.

I'm building a home for myself and have subbed out a few of the major jobs that are difficult to do as a loner. When my concrete sub poured my foundation walls with a brick ledge, he simply poured a thicker wall and slipped a 2x4 form inside the top of the foundation wall forms to create the brick ledge. Realized today through my framer that when my garage walls and brick ledge were poured, the concrete guy didn't take into account that with his way of doing the brick ledge he was reducing the width of my garage by 3 1/2 inches. Not a big deal except for the fact that now I don't have the bearing point for my trusses in the right spot. It is only 3 1/2 inches off, but I know that these bearing points are critical, so what can I do in terms of adding support (webs, gussets, whatever) to the trusses which would allow the bearing point to be moved in 3 1/2 inches. Thanks.

[dhill]

I'm not an expert at this, and I'm sure someone else will chime in and give you a solution, but what I've seen with slab pours, what your concrete guy did is pretty typical for the brick ledge. Actually, I've seen them use a 2X6 instead of the 2x4 used for the ledge board. I think (and I may be way off) that the width of your footings should accomodate that 3 1/2 inches.

[Rich]

You're right dhill - the difference between what iowaboys concrete subcontractor did was not pour it to account for that brickledge and hence decreased the size of the bearing points (i.e. exterior walls). Then the framing contractor and truss manufacturer didn't field verify the actual length. You'll need to go back to your truss manufacturer and see what they suggest. I would imagine you may just need a bigger shear plate on the truss and possibly a vertical (depending on how your trusses are manufactured)