Where do I find Vinyl trim? And do I even need it? [Archive] - Home Construction Forums

PDA

View Full Version : Where do I find Vinyl trim? And do I even need it?


speedyox
12-15-2004, 01:10 PM
I'm thinking about installing a door or a window in my garage (built in 2002) before I insulate and (maybe) close up the walls. The rest of the house uses vinly nailing flange windows with J-trim to match the rest of the siding butted up against the window frame (over the flange). How is the best way to go about installing a new window or door without tearing off the siding? I can get the door or window at Home Depot or Lowes but I don't know where to get the J-trim. How do I find a few pieces for this tiny job? Assuming I can find it, how do I nail it on under the siding? I read in a book something about fabricating a Z moulding and cutting a groove in the siding for it to run off into. There wasn't a picture and it didn't make sense to me. The book was also talking about wood siding.

grumpydasmurf
12-16-2004, 05:52 AM
many siding supply stores will have it. NOT home depot etc...

speedyox
12-16-2004, 06:11 AM
many siding supply stores will have it. NOT home depot etc...

Is there somewhere you know of in the Western Suburbs?


I just moved to the Western Suburbs and I dont have a yellow pages. The online yellow pages give me phone numbers for a couple wholesalers and some contractors but no retailers.

How about midwest siding suply in Aurora? http://www.midwestsiding.com/

grumpydasmurf
12-16-2004, 08:54 AM
LOl wow had I even noticed you were in aurora I would have offered up some refrences.

Hmmm I am much further north than you. I get my wood siding from midwest siding supply. I think they are Naperville.

You can always try www.rollex.com They make good siding and their factory is in Elk Grove Village. I know they have outlet centers all over.

speedyox
12-16-2004, 12:30 PM
Thanks. Rollex has great pictures online but they seem to want to send me to WI to buy it. I'll give Midwest Siding Supply a call and see if they'll sell me a couple pieces.

Thanks again.

I still dont know how I would install J-channel once I had it. I fully understand how it is installed before the vinyl siding is put on but I dont know how to do it in a newly cut hole in a finished wall.

Any help?
[/i]

grumpydasmurf
12-16-2004, 02:19 PM
WI? No No. They have outlets all over IL, definetly you can buy factory direct in Elk Grove Village. I buy my Rollex supplies in Arlington heights.

I wouldn't know how to install j channel either, without removing and reinstalling the siding int hat area... And that's opening pandoras box. LOL I've ended up reinstalling entire walls just to seal a small hole.

speedyox
12-16-2004, 09:41 PM
hmm... That doesn't sound good. There must be a way to flash a new window in an existing vinyl sided wall. There arent any other openings on that side of the house, so I could trim it any way I like, I just want it to be weathertight. I know you cant caulk vinyl because it has to move, so what do I do?

grumpydasmurf
12-17-2004, 06:51 AM
hmm... That doesn't sound good. There must be a way to flash a new window in an existing vinyl sided wall. There arent any other openings on that side of the house, so I could trim it any way I like, I just want it to be weathertight. I know you cant caulk vinyl because it has to move, so what do I do?

The window is new meaning you cut the opening, or the window is new meaning you replaced it?

Personally I like aluminum trim around myw indows and doors. But to do it properly you'd also have to take off the siding. That is not to say it can't be done but that is to say that the water tightness of the aluminum will rely on the joint between the vinyl siding and aluminum trim.

You are asking for a quick easy way, and I just do not think there is one.

speedyox
12-17-2004, 07:14 AM
The window is new meaning I plan to cut the opening in the wall (which has been sided for 2 years. I haven't decided yet if it is going to be a window or a door and I might just punt the whole deal if I have to re-side half the wall.

If I waited until it was warm out, do you think I could: cut the hole in the wall, unlock the siding, slip the J-channel behind the siding, and then carefully bend and flip the siding up to nail the J-channel in place, and then carefully snap it back into place and lock it? Would it be flexible and resiliant enough for that to work? I'll have to wrap the rough opening in tyvek or felt right? Is there anything else I'm missing?

Tom R
12-17-2004, 06:40 PM
Speedyox,

I'll take for granted here you know the carpentry end, - - and just discuss the siding itself. Let's say for instance, you're installing a door (steel door, pre-hung), - - you would measure the height and width to the outside edges of the brickmold, - - now add 1/8" to your height and 1/2" to your width, - - and draw these dimensions on your siding where you want the opening, - - this is where you cut the siding, - - then you cut your J-channel to 'fit' the outside edges of your brickmold, - - now 'slide' your J-channels into place behind the and up to the siding but don't attach them yet, - - now install your door (centered), leaving your equal 1/4" spacings on each side and your 1/8" on top, - - (next step would be to 'wrap' your brickmolds if you're going to), - - then slide your J-channels against your brickmold, - - and nail (with aluminum trim nails) through the channels and into the sides of your brickmolds (your nail locations in your J would be just under the 'lap-planes' of the siding, - - where you have the most room). Pre-drill though the J, so the head of the nail does the holding, not the shank. Don't nail too tight, just barely snug 'em. Use a nail punch to 'reach in', or better yet a 'pea-shooter'. Five on each side, three on the top. Cutting the siding 'shy' is necessary to allow for summertime expansion. You'll need to cut the siding with a hand-held grinder with a metal cutting wheel or a diamond wheel, - - because any type of 'toothed' blade will 'shatter' your siding when it's cold outside (you could also use a circular saw with a diamond wheel, - - but watch that the 'saw-shoe' doesn't scratch your siding). Hope this helps, - - I've done it at least a dozen times.

speedyox
12-18-2004, 06:21 AM
Tom, thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for. How do you suggest I 'wrap' the brickmould?

Tom R
12-18-2004, 12:23 PM
If you don't have a brake (bender), just take the measurements of your brickmold and have someone bend it for you. The brickmold will measure thicker on the outside edge than the inside, - - go by the bigger of the two measurements. Your bent pieces will need to be C-shaped (3-sided). Usually something like 1 1/8" X 2 1/8" X 1 1/8". You'll need two 7'ers and a 3 1/2' length. Cut all three pieces 'full-length' (measured along the outside edges). Now hold up one side in place while you mark a line on the inside edge of it where it meets the underside of your top brickmold, - - then cut off this inside lip at that point, - - then install. Now do the same thing with the other side. Then hold the top piece in place, and mark both ends on the underside where it meets the inside edges of your wrapped sides, - - then cut them off and install. To cut a side off of a piece that's already been bent, - - you just score a line with a utility knife along the inside edge of your corner, - - then 'snip' across your line, - - then bend it back and forth along your 'score-line', - - it will break off clean.

P.S. Actually, - - you should be able to find someone to wrap it for you, - - for about $75 (if you're going with a standard white aluminum or PVC).