Connection to water main in PA

[jreid]

I am moving my water meter in my basement, increasing the size of the main trunk from 1/2" to 1" and relocating the water meter (in the basement). I want to do this because

1. The water main comes in through the floor about 16 inches from the wall and I am trying to finish the basement. I WILL NOT box around the thing. I have thought about this and it would be impractical and obtrusive.

2. The main comes in as 3/4" and reduces to 1/2" after the meter, check valve and 2nd shut off.

3. The main trunk is 1/2" pipe for a 3000 sq. ft. house. I am making it 1". The plumber that did this should be drawn and quartered. If someone turns a faucet on while you're in the shower, the pressure drops to a trickle.

This is what I know

1. The meter must be relocated since it must be mounted horizontal, face-up and the face must be readable.

2. I cannot make a solder connection to the main pipe.

My current plan is to relocate the meter to what will be a closet and drop it down about 16" so that it can be accessed and read easily. I've got all the details with that worked out.

My problem is the connection to the main. I have busted up the concrete slab in the basement. The pipe is a 3/4" copper pipe that comes through the footer and is bent up to vertical to go through the slab about 16" from the wall. I have removed the slab up to the wall.

I intend to make a connection to the pipe and bury it since it will be below-slab and out about 14" in the middle of the floor.

I need advice. I am assuming since I cannot make a solder connection, I must use a compression fitting to make the connection to the main. I will have to make several turns through several 90 degree fittings to allow me to make a connection back up against the wall. Is there any other way to make this connection that would be simpler and reliable? Why can't a solder connection be used on the main pipe? Do you see any problem with burying the connection below slab after it is made?

Thanks

[kadoka]

Why make it 1" if the main from the city is only 3/4"? You won't gain any water flow beyond the 3/4" main's limits.

Why can't you make a solder connection to the main? It is copper isn't it?

[dhill]

They make a no-hub clamp for those types of problems. From my experience, the no-hub is reliable and easy to make work. I'm not sure if any codes restrict its use. I'm not sure why you can't solder the main. Is it copper? pvc? Most residential service in our area is pvc from the water meter to the house. This pipe is generally 1/2". If you're trying to solder a copper pipe, use flux and get the pipe clean. Also, if you're soldering in cold temps and there is water in the line, the copper has a hard time heating to a necessary temp to receive the solder. You might try calling a plumber in your area and asking these questions, get a job bid, have them describe what needs to be done, then, if feasible, do it yourself. :)

[jreid]

The pipe is copper and it could be soldered, but I had a guy from PA American Water (the water company) come out to move the meter and I explained what I was going to do. He said I could not make a solder connection to the main. He emphasized this by pointing out the shut-off before the meter which is the first connection to the main was a compression fitting (or flare I can't tell). I asked why and he did not give me a straight answer. I guess I need to call them again to get clarification.

As for the 1", I've researched and from what I have found, bigger pipe = less pressure drop. Even with the 1/2" still between the main inlet and the new 1" main trunk, I can tell a difference. (I've gotta keep the 1/2" until I move the meter) Plus there is a pressure reducer that should further allow me to adjust the pressure to take advantage of the 1" pipe.

What is a "no-hub" clamp?

Thanks for the input.

[dhill]

A no-hub is a connector designed to splice 2 pipes together when you can't solder connections. Basically, it's a rubber sleeve with clamps. We used no hubs a few years back when we had to connect lead sewage pipe that had been connected from bell flare to pipe by pouring lead around the inserted pipe. Thank the maker that lead pipe isn't used anymore. I'm not sure that I'm picturing what your situation is, so I don't know that a no-hub would work. They also make compression splicers of pvc that can be used. If you're talking about connecting into the meter, why can't you use a flare or compression fitting or even threaded fitting?