Interior Trim

[cabinboy]

I have a few spots where the sheetrock is out further than the window jamb and this will cause a gap of about 1/8" between the jamb and the trim around part of the window. What is the best way work this problem. Should I use a sander and bring the rock down, or is it better to fill in the gap with wood filler. I plan on painting the trim and windows white.

Thanks

[Rich]

Most trim has a small relief cut out on the back of it to account for any variations in the wall. If it's more than that I would cut the sheetrock down. You should be able to cut the sheetrock about an 1" or so away from the jamb and taper it to the jamb - or remove it completely. The trim (with the back relief) should sit flat then.

[Dragon]

Hold a piece of your casing flush with the inside of the jamb and mark the outside edge with a pencil.

1/4 inch inside the pencil line cut the sheetrock with a utility knife and start hitting it with a hammer from the bottom up so that sheetrock doesnt fall on you while you're hammering. and remove it.

Install your trim.

[Tom R]

Another way is to cut or buy yourself some 1/8" X 1/2" strips and pack out your jambs first (to the same level as your rock), - - then just case normally.

Leave 1/8" of your jambs showing when you apply the strips, - - and then leave 1/8" of your strips showing when you apply your casings, - - this will leave a 'double-reveal', - - making it look intended.

[Dragon]

Argh the bevels, the bevels!!!

[Tom R]

What-you-talkin', Dragon?, - - it's your method that would require 'bevels'.

[Dragon]

Yeah but yours are reversed.

I usually cut a 1 degree bevel front-to-back on the legs and none on the headpiece. Usually one trip back to the saw to adjust, and a perfect fit.

Oh, and I always measure all 4 corners and cut my jambs to the nearest 1/16. We are masters of the freehand rip.

[Tom R]

How would mine be reversed?

I extend my jambs 'flush' with the drywall.

Meaning my casings can lay 'flat' on my miter saw table, - - as they would on the window/wall.

As it was intended.

By 'rights', - - if you don't 'flush-up' your jambs to your wall, - - you would have to 'jack-up' the outside edges (back edges) of your casings before cutting your '45's by the same amount to attain the compound angle you've created.

[Tom R]

Basically, - - you're making an 'equal' number of negative and positive allowances to get you back to your '0' reference level, - - and I'm just 'starting' and 'staying' at that reference level.

[Dragon]

Hey as long as it works, go for it.

Its basically two ways of arriving at the same result.