elect. for addition.

[myvalk]

its ben a while since i ran any electrical in an addition.
as i remember, i used 14/2 romex for the outlets and switches,(15 a circuit)
12/2 on a 20 a brkr. for microwave, fridge etc.
this is ny. any changes?
thanx

[roger g]

I would be very surprised if you needed 12-2 for micro and/or fridge which is usually 15 amp though if it was 20 amp yes you would use 12-2.

roger

[giddonah]

seriously, the first time it was a little funny, but the huge red letters make me feel like my eyes are bleeding.

[Dragon]

I'm old school. I prefer using 12-2 for everything.

[midnightscape]

seriously, the first time it was a little funny, but the huge red letters make me feel like my eyes are bleeding.

LOL

[dhill]

You can use 14-2 but the wire temp will heat up with the load, and you lose effeciency which means more money on electricity. For the nominal price difference in 12-2 and 14-2, I would use 12-2 always.

[myvalk]

thanx all, and sorry bout the large red letters

[roger g]

Sorry. Can't see the logic of using 12-2. All wiring codes factor in huge safety margins. If a wire heats up enough to cause a problem then you have a bigger problem than you thought. ALL wires actually warm up but is it detactable or even worth factoring in especially when people far more knowledgeable than me have already set out very safe parameters. I hate trying to put a 12-2 under a screw and in most cases (at least since I last checked) I couldn't put a 12-2 into one of those "push" holes in the back of a receptacle. Of course you can use 12-2 but why not 10-2 instead.
I must've got up on the wrong side today.


roger

[dhill]

14-2 is within code in TX. The code is written to protect the owner, and 14-2 works as code allows its installation. In my opinion, 12-2 is preferable to 14-2. 10-2 is overkill and harder to work with because of wire diameter. I doubt that there will be significant heat build up with 14-2, but there will be even less with 12-2. 12-2 will save energy, and that's simply a personal position or preference. Of course, I tend to overbuild everything nominally within reason. I realize I didn't answer myvalk's question; rather, I offered advice. I'm not from NY so I don't know if the code has changed. I know of some of the code changes in TX, but 14-2 is allowed here. I run 12-2 though.

[Cole]

You nailed in Dusty.

[Tom R]

There is 'talk' of eventually changing the code to a minimum of 12/2 for all general purpose residential circuitry, - - I always use it either way.

Rog, - - 'pushing' the wires into the back of the receptacles is generally considered an unsafe practice, - - the connections made are less than 'dependable', - - I'm actually surprised they're still allowed.

[roger g]

I never could understand why there was two options for attaching wires to a receptacle. Back in the seventies you only had the screws and then later on the holes started to appear. I'm not sure whether you can even get a receptacle with only screws. All that sort of stuff is all CSA or Underwriter Lab. approved and I just went through my old code book and couldn't find anything that stops it. Most of the time I use the screws because I guess I am the old school but I see a lot of electricians here use the holes. I have used the holes especially when some idiot electrician only left enough loose wire to able to just make it into a hole. That's when I appreciate the holes.


roger

[Tom R]

[quote="roger g"] That's when I appreciate the holes.


I'll leave that one alone :lol:

[Dragon]

[quote=roger g] That's when I appreciate the holes.


I'll leave that one alone :lol:

You didn't.

[myvalk]

no , he didnt.. but he could have said... never mind. :D

[Vector]

Actually, the best in my opinions are the ones that have holes in the back, but rather than a cheap little barb to hold in the wire, you tighten down the side screws to clamp the wire in. These are usually referred to as "back-wire" outlets, and are usually "spec-grade" units (which cost about $1.75 each, not $0.35).

"Backstabbed" outlets are flat out dangerous. On another board I used to frequent, there were probably several people a week that came in with problems that were eventually traced back to faults with backstabbed outlets.

[Rich]

I've redone some of the electrical in my home. Nothing has ever been done to it - I'm the second owner and the first owner was a friend of mine. There was no rhyme or reason why they did it the way they did. One would be backstabbed and the next would use the posts. The exterior outlets are tied to the basement outlets and the garage outlets.. huh? So I try and cut 2" rock maple with my tablesaw and it trips the breaker - basement goes out, garage, and exterior.. couldn't believe it. Anyway - my little rant.
I'm with the others though on backstabbing.. not a good practice.

[Dragon]

Thats the nice thing about using 12-2. You can't backstab it into your standard outlet. The wire is too big!

Or at least it is for the receptacles that I run across.

[Vector]

Code specifically disallowed backstabbed outlets for 20A circuits some time back, so all the receptacles produced now only have a hole big enough for 14ga.

Why they didn't disallow backstabbed connections altogether, I don't know.