Kelly S
02-24-2005, 10:58 AM
Bought an old farmhouse. Am a "do-it-yourselfer." Would like to insulate the roofline with Icynene, but need to make sure the roof can handle a snow load once insulated. (No insulation now, so no snow stays for more than a day.) Live in Kansas. Have been reading this forum, and have great fears.
Here's what I have:
One section of the gabled roof is 34' from gable to gable, 24' span across, with knee walls at 6.5' from both outer edges. Knee walls are constructed of old, true 2x4's but the uprights are spaced every 4 '. Here's the real kicker. The rafters are 2x4's (newer ones 1.5 x3.5) on 24" centers, notched (think you call it bird beak) at top of walls, but NO ridge beam or board. The rafters are simply toe-nailed together at the peak.
I believe the pitch is roughly 8.5/12 (Peak is 8'5" above floor and 12'/2" from outside wall across floor).
I was hoping to finish this room, using the knee walls and gable ends as the room walls, and attaching drywall to rafters. Can drop the ceiling a bit down the ridge to allow for collar ties if that would help.
What do you think? (she asks with a clinched teeth grimace)
Here's what I have:
One section of the gabled roof is 34' from gable to gable, 24' span across, with knee walls at 6.5' from both outer edges. Knee walls are constructed of old, true 2x4's but the uprights are spaced every 4 '. Here's the real kicker. The rafters are 2x4's (newer ones 1.5 x3.5) on 24" centers, notched (think you call it bird beak) at top of walls, but NO ridge beam or board. The rafters are simply toe-nailed together at the peak.
I believe the pitch is roughly 8.5/12 (Peak is 8'5" above floor and 12'/2" from outside wall across floor).
I was hoping to finish this room, using the knee walls and gable ends as the room walls, and attaching drywall to rafters. Can drop the ceiling a bit down the ridge to allow for collar ties if that would help.
What do you think? (she asks with a clinched teeth grimace)