Bathtub installation

[bkrahmer]

Ok, dumb question of the day: What is the process for installing a bathtub/shower in new construction? Do I put the tub and all plumbing in place before doing drywall? If I do not, I don't understand how I would hook up the drain and overflow... Thanks.

[Cole]

Make sure all of your plumbing is in, and install your tub before drywall.

[Dragon]

Access door.

[myvalk]

your waste and feed have to be installed b4 the tub, then the tub placed in place, and hooked up from there.
then drywall down to the top edge of the tub.
if your measurements are accurate, then the tub will fit right on the bath shoe, and the overflow will match up too.

[bkrahmer]

If you were doing tile, would you skip the drywall where you are installing the tile, and do 1/2" backerboard instead, or would you do drywall, then 1/4" backerboard, then tile?

I see the cast iron tubs are like 300#. Yikes! I'm thinking of going acrylic instead....

[onewayrider]

Im about to start the tiling job around a "fibertech2000" acylic tub. When I put the tub against the wall and then put the cement board up do I bring it to the edge of the top of the flange or bring it into the tub to the first lip? If I do that it makes the cement board on an angle into the tub which knocks the whole thing out of square. Im not explaining this very good I know so there's a pic at this link. If I were to put the cement board only to the top of the flange of the tub and then carry the tiles down to the first lip I will have a hollow spot behind the tiles at the tub, about an inch to 1 1/2 inch down to the first lip because the 1/2" cement board is not flush. Hope you can tell from the picture what im talking about. Also the walls are square but the tub does not sit square to the walls.

http://homepage.mac.com/heymac/PhotoAlbum13.html

[Tom R]

Onewayrider, - - I bring the drywall or cement board down 'to' the lip (not 'over'), - - then use your mastic or thinset as a backer for the 'hollow', - - still leave the bottom 1/4" to 1/2" hollow, - - so there's no 'wicking' (if there's ever a caulk failure), - - 'wicking' would be more of a problem on mastic (it's actually water soluble over time) then on thinset, - - but I would play it safe either way.

[Tom R]

bkrahmer,

I'm sure plenty of people would argue this, - - and they have that right, - - but I use drywall behind the tile, - - simply because backerboard is harder to work with and is, in my opinion, overkill, - - I've torn out several drywalled, tiled shower walls that were in perfectly good condition after 35 years (because they were done right), - - simply because the customer wanted a new look. Granted, let's say the life of drywall (even on a well-executed job) is 35-40 years, - - and cement board life may even be 'indefinite', - - the average bath remodel is about 12-15 years anyway. Cement board's best 'claim-to-fame', - - in my opinion, - - is that it's 'idiot-proof'.

[roger g]

Kramer. Like the other guy said: you do your plumbing correctly at first. Make sure all your supply lines do not leak first. Plug of your shower outlet and test the vertical line also. Make sure your drail lines are in the correct location. You place your tub right over the drain. There is always some wriggle room in the plastic piping. You drop the drain assemble through the tub and screw the thing together. Don't forget the plumbers putty. The overflow thing is a pain and never wants to fit properly which is why god invented silicone. Make sure you have a good seal at the overflow because I have seen many many leaks at that point. There is usually a good seal at the bottom of the overflow but a lousey one at the top all due to the configeration of the tub and or seal. The leak shows upwhen you take a shower and the waTer runs down and in behind the chrome cap and out the top of the lousey seal.


One way rider: You attach the tub to the studs after making sure it is level. You runyour drywall down until it just touches the fibreglass. The drywall does not overlap the fibreglass. Some guys leave a hair clearance. Your tile will will hang down below the drywall maybe half inch or so untill it hits the first contour. The tiles don't usually go as far down as the flat, horizontal part of the tub. If you have put the drywall up as I have explained, slide a tile down the wall and where the tile hits the tub is where the tile is supposed to stop. At that contour. You will find probably that the tub is not really that flat where the tiles are supposed to stop. I have found that usually in the middle of the tub is where it is the lowest for laying the tile. You start your tile s AT THE LOWEST POINT. Which means of course a lot of your first row of tiles will have a hair shaved off the bottom. Another problem with fibreglass tuss and tiling is at the corners. The radius of the corner wants to push the tiles out away from the drywall. Try it and you will see. I 've had to grind off some of the back of the tile to make it fit better.
As far as not being square it depends on how much youare talking about. I've had to slightly notch the 2x4 wall sometimes. If it is a short wall, I've moved it a hair and re attached it to the floor. A bigger wall you're screwed. Sometimes it's a matter of _ a little bit of this and a little bit of that and I hope no one seen this or that.
Give me a steel tub which is punched out flat and square like cookies by the thousands rather that these semi handmade higildee pigildee tubs.



roger

[bkrahmer]

I ended up using a Kohler acrylic tub that I got at Lowes. It has a three-piece surround that has a simulated tile look. I debated whether to put it in a mortar bed for several days. I ended up doing it with a bag of premix concrete (over felt). That worked well. The tub is 18" tall and 32" wide, so it's a bit bigger than standard. For the overflow and drain, I ended up going with the Watts twist-knob type. I highly recommend them. After trying to install a trip-lever and cutting one of the pipes too short, the one I got has a much better design, IMO. I'm confident the overflow won't leak, as it has a foam rubber gasket about 3/8" thick. My drain actually leaks a bit, even though I used putty and thought I tightened it enough. I need to tighten it a bit more.

I only installed my tub like two days before the crew was supposed to do the drywall on the main floor. What I realized is that I am going to have one hell of a time installing two more tubs on the second floor since the first floor drywall is now finished. Instead of finishing my main floor first, second floor second, and basement last, I should have done my second floor first, main floor second, basement last. Oh well, I do everything the hard way... :)

[onewayrider]

Roger, thanks for explaining that. Im still having a problem with getting everything square but im sure i'll figure it out. It's a real little bit if this and that for sure. I would rather have a steel tub.