arched doorway

[ITE]

what is the best method to frame an arched interior doorway? any special tips or tricks anyone minds to share?

[bkrahmer]

Is it an arched doorway or an arched opening? If it was an arched opening, I would frame it out square, then cut out two pieces of plywood and some pieces of 2x4 to create the arch after the wall is up.

[giddonah]

Is it an arched doorway or an arched opening? If it was an arched opening, I would frame it out square, then cut out two pieces of plywood and some pieces of 2x4 to create the arch after the wall is up.
I have some openings I'm going to arch, and will probably do it this way. If you have arched doors, won't the door manufacturer have ideas?

[Rich]

I would frame it square also and infill the radius portions. Make the header just a little above the height of the actual radius so whatever material you put along the inside face flushes up with where the opening is (2 layers of 3/8" plywood or bendable plywood). Or you can infill with metal studs pretty easily also.

I should also ask - an actual door or just an opening? If it's just an opening I would suggest the wood framing and bendable plywood. Then use 1/2" drywall and wet it down with a spray bottle about an hour or so before applying it.

[ITE]

sorry, I sometimes forget that the project is not infront of everyone. It is an arched opening.
just a quick thought, is most drywall manufactured so that it will bend to a smaller radius in one dimension, length vs. width or opposite, than the other or does it matter?

now about the bendable plywood, could you elaborate a little on this, are you talking about plywood that is manufactured to be flexable or are you talking about something thin that you can make bend?

thanks for the previous replys

[Rich]

Bendable plywood is actually fabricated to be able to bend.

Drywall should be able to bend in either direction equally - except the tapered edges.

[Sweep]

Flex-C Trac allows a curved metal stud wall but you might be able to use it for an arch.

http://www.proplaster.com.au/FlexCTracProdCatal.htm

[Tom R]

Actually, Rich, - - I would have thought drywall would bend easier width-wise than length-wise, - - as it does, I understand, have a grain to it. The reason I say that is that if you think about it, - - drywall will sag in between joists if run parallel, - - whereas it won't if it's run perpendicular to the joists. I would imagine the difference is still minimal.

[VALENT]

TomR, I always thought that sag was based on the small amount of give that the fasteners would allow in that direction. It is a very small amount of give, but much larger in comparison to the other direction. This is not knowledge, only thought.

[Tom R]

Not saying you're wrong, - - but I'm not following you, - - in what direction is a 'round' fastener the weakest?, - - or, - - if you mean the fastener or the drywall 'pulling' from the weight, - - wouldn't the pull be equal from both sides?

[roger g]

I have never used it or even seen it for that matter but I have been told on several occassions that on curved walls and arches you can get quarter inch drywall which will bend easily and use two layers.


roger

[Tom R]

You're right Rog, - - there is such an animal as 1/4" drywall, - - though I rarely find it necessary, - - because by wetting the drywall it will bend just about as much as you want. Just trying to stimulate some friendly banter here. :D

[Dragon]

Ok pet peeve time.

1st of all do not set your header anywhere even close to where you want the top of your opening to be. Get that thing up out of the way.

For the purposes of this tutorial we will assume a standard 2X4 wall, or 3.5" thick.

Take some 1/2" plywood (or osb) and cut your arch out. Twice. I prefer using a router compass for this but you could do the same by making a jigsaw compass. This is a long board attached to your saw or router that is nailed down at your pivot point. Determine how far down from the header the top and sides of your arch will be and cut accordingly, making two solid pieces that will fill in the area below the header.

Next, rip some 2X into 2.5 inch strips and solid block along the bottom of your arch. Go ahead and miter the two end pieces so that there are no gaps in the most crucial location. Using a square, attach both pieces of plywood, one on either side.

Next, center more 2.5" under the header and down both trimmers.

raise your arch into place and attach.

Perfect, can be trimmed out however you wish, or sheetrocked.

You will have solid backing for whatever you wish to do.

If the arch is going into an exterior wall simply cut two holes through the interior plywood and fill with insulation.

[kadoka]

Just had two arched openings drywalled, taped, and textured this week along with the rest of the house. The drywall guy did not use drywall on the underside of the arch but used masonite with the rough side out. He taped and finished it and it looks great. He says bending the drywall doesn't work well as it will not hold up well.

[Tom R]

I don't agree that they won't hold up well, - - as I've done some over 15 years ago that are still fine, - - what is his logic that they won't hold up? (so I can tell him where it's flawed).

[Tom R]

Using the masonite may not be a bad idea, - - but the 'official' reasoning would be simply that it's easier to bend, - - and wouldn't have to be wet, - - on the other hand, - - spackling is formulated especially for drywall, - - as far as 'adherence' and a matching 'dimensional response'.

I'm not out-and-out saying the bond of the spackling to the masonite will fail real soon, - - but I'd be willin' to bet it wouldn't hold up as long as if it was bonded to drywall.

[kadoka]

Tom

Don't know his logic but he has been doing this for over 30 years and is considered one of the best in the area. Good enough for me.

[Tom R]

Yeah, - - I'm sure it will be fine. Besides, - - he's got 4 years on me. :D

[kadoka]

Tom

so you are new a this??? LOL

[plunkinberry]

Honestly, the material will depend on the radius (or diameter) of the arch. I've bent drywall, dramed with plywood (exactly like Dragon explained) and used the back of masonite... all have a place. I just did 2 arched openings between studs in a wall with 24" centers going up a set of steps to create arch-topped openings - has a castle window effect. Very nice, but it took a lot of time because my radius is SOOOO tight... After the fact, I decided it wasn't worth the effort for all the time and work involved for that tight arch.

But on a more conventional sized arch (with a 30" or larger opening) any of the aforementioned methods will work well.