View Full Version : Roof Framing - Stick frame or trusses?
Tom_in_SC
05-24-2005, 08:06 AM
Here is the url for a pdf file with our house plans - http://people.clemson.edu/~tom/house/HousepPlans.pdf
The design calls for roof trusses...to transfer the load to the outside walls because of the large open basement area. We have since decided to build some load bearing walls in the basement. There will be an LVL beam with poles in the "basement garage" area and a wall running right through the middle of the main basement area. Now for the question: Would it still be necessary (or desirable) to go with the roof trusses? My three main area in question would be 1) handling the interior loads, 2) the raised roof on the front porch, and 3) the large overhang (4' 2") on the back of the house garage (page 5 right side elevation). Thanks!
dhill
05-24-2005, 09:21 AM
Two considerations for stick framing the roof:
1. Do you need attic space?
2. Cost of trusses versus cost of lumber.
A good roof framing crew can stick build a roof in two or three days. Putting up trusses takes less time. Is time an issue?
Tom_in_SC
05-24-2005, 09:34 AM
Thanks, dhill, for the quick reply.
1. There is a "bonus room" planned for over the garage. The attic space over the main house would be nice (we were planning attci trusses), but is not a "must have".
2. We can get a lot of lumber for $15,000 (the quote for the truses)
Time is not an issue.
bkrahmer
05-24-2005, 11:05 AM
I was going to say that $15k is a lot for trusses (especially for your relatively simple roof) until I saw the dimensions... 46x110'!!! If I had to stick-frame the roof, I'd use I-joists, and at that span you are talking some pretty big ones. (I'm estimating $14k for the I-joist materials alone). I think the trusses are pretty reasonable.
15k?????????
I just had a 50x80 bid at a little over 5k.
Tom R
05-25-2005, 07:37 PM
15k?????????
I just had a 50x80 bid at a little over 5k.
Did you catch Tom's address?, - - maybe they think he's 'easy-Pickins'!! :lol:
bkrahmer
05-25-2005, 10:24 PM
I guess trusses are a lot cheaper in CO than they are in ID then. I remember also that when I was working on my roof design, I called my lumber company and asked them how much trusses would be. They said ballpark of $3 per sf. 46x110x3 = $15k. Hmmm...
Tom_in_SC
05-26-2005, 06:21 AM
Talked with the framer yesterday. He would prefer to stick build the roof, but is willing to do either for the same labor price. We moved one wall to remove the large overhang (4' 2") on the back of the garage. Does this change anyone's opinion? (We haven't yet figured the materials cost of stick framing.)
VALENT
05-26-2005, 08:54 AM
I'm sure he would put up the trusses for the same price as stick framing the roof-- it shouldn't take him near as long. If you use prebuilt trusses, the labor charges should decrease some.
R Birch
05-26-2005, 12:15 PM
Tom,
My policy on changes is "If the changes made are not at my expense, there is no charge". I would probable charge more to cut that roof than go with the original Plan w/trusses. That would be a change at my expense. If your framer says "No difference" to him, then you might save a few dollars. From a structural stance, I would recomend that you stay with trusses for the simple gable roof. You might want to get more truss bids to compare. Trusses are the way too go on your roof in my opinion.
bkrahmer
05-26-2005, 08:21 PM
If you do stick-frame it, please post back some details of how they did it. I would be very interested...
Dragon
05-27-2005, 05:58 AM
Your framer will do either for the same price?
You're paying for a stick built roof no matter what then.
Can I do your trim? We'll just put in the basic casing and base, but charge you for a full blown stain grade trim job.
You'll be getting the same deal.
Tom_in_SC
05-27-2005, 06:10 AM
Actually, the price was negotiated using trusses. (He was including the cost of a crane in his estimate). When we talked about switching to stick framing, the price did not increase. His price is lower than (but in line with) another framer who never even talked about stick framing. If you want to let me know what you think it should cost for this particular framing job, I'll let you know how your price compares.
Thanks to everyone for the responses and opinions!
Dragon
05-27-2005, 06:16 AM
Well in that case Tom can do your trim.
;)
Something is still off though, unless cranes are more expensive than the norm in your area.
Tom_in_SC
05-27-2005, 06:33 AM
Actually, I am going to do my own trim. If you wanna come help, I give you a place to sleep and meals :-)
But seriously...I was surprised at the lack of a price difference, also. The crane would be just over $100 per hour here. All that said, he was the least expensive and most responsive. I've seen (and like) his work. Another contractor, two materials suppliers, and an inspector know him and recommend him - so I don't think I am being cheated.
Since I'm 90% sure we are going to go with the stick framing, it somewhat of a non-issue.
Thanks again for the replies.
giddonah
05-27-2005, 07:20 AM
What's this I hear? Someone likes their builder :?:
I guess I'm just getting used to the Horror Stories forum.
Tom_in_SC
05-27-2005, 07:39 AM
What's this I hear? Someone likes their builder :?:
I guess I'm just getting used to the Horror Stories forum.Yeah, I like him. Compared to the other framers I have talked with, or who never called back, or who do shoddy work, it is easy to like him.
Ask me again after the work in done :-)
Havent we had this topic over and over again?
It all comes down to personal prefrence.
myron
05-29-2005, 08:53 PM
Its late and I didnt really look over your drawings but, a 46' truss compared to stick framed. Well your talking over 25' rafters, mostly defitnetly not conventional lumber, TJI or whatever as someone mentioned. Ceiling joist well, 3 sets, two bearing partitions or engineered lumber again.
As far as labour costs, I'd guess-to-mate it to be at least three times to go non truss.
Is your framer over confident, its gotta take him longer to cut that roof than truss it, or perhaps his price is high enough he'll even go out and cut the trees.
Myron
Sweep
07-10-2005, 06:26 AM
I would raise the roof pitch to 8 in 12 or higher which would look better and allow good use of the attic space. I confess, I hate trusses.
Tom R
07-10-2005, 07:47 AM
Glad you mentioned it, - - I hate trusses myself, - - any 'savings' go to the builder, - - the homeowner pays for it later with truss uplift, drywall cracks, nail pops, and a major loss of 'real' storage area.
Real men stick-frame.
I've never used trusses, and never will.
I have used them and prefer to go with stick-built over trusses on residential construction.
Trusses vs stick framed.. either work, if done correctly. I've seen both stick framed and trussed roofs have problems when not done correctly.
Tom R
07-10-2005, 09:21 AM
I guess it's also just that I'd rather not depend on others (trusses coming in on time and coming in correct), when I can just build what I need on site, - - but hey, - - far be it from me to argue with someone (like Rich) that's from a place far 'Superior'!! :lol:
giddonah
07-10-2005, 11:41 AM
Tom's puns are like a train you can see coming but just can't stop. :lol:
You got that right giddonah. :)
On my last "little" project we ended up going with trusses due to the owners request. I had reservations to begin with just due to the project. I thought we could get a better product stick framing it - but the owner didn't trust that anyone would get all the blocking and additional supports right.. and I wasn't sure if the owner would end up wanting to move a bunch of interior bearing walls (ended up that they didn't move too many).
Anyway - we ended up putting slip joints throughout the interior walls and coming up with details to account for truss uplift. As it also turns out - then engineer said we probably wouldn't have any truss uplift due to the weight of the structure and wind loading patterns in the area. We did all the slip details anyway :)
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