counter top that is not 90o degrees

[roger g]

This is an interesting thought. (at least to me)
I'm presently replacing a customers L shaped counter top and it turns out that on the short L of 4 feet the wall is out by one inch. I've managed to shave some, bang some, curse alot and hope that the ceramic tile above the top PlUS lots of silicone will cover it.
Let's say the wall is really 95 degrees rather than 90 degrees. Will manufactures make a custom angle like that. I'm sure they will but I've never heard anyone order a top just slightly off square. I've seen strange angles tops but never one just off square.


roger

[giddonah]

What about having the counter made too deep, and cutting it to width at the 5 degrees?

Just an idea, I'd imagine it'd be easier to have them make one off square than too wide.

[roger g]

No, wouldn't work. I'm using the top with the pre formed back splash and the rolled front. If you look at the profile of the back splash it gives you some extra material that you can remove but only so much. In renovating you have things already in place and must work around and compromise BIGTIME. This 1 inch in 4 feet is about the worst I've seen in this scenario.


roger

[giddonah]

In renovating you have things already in place and must work around and compromise BIGTIME.
You're prechin' to the chior brother! :lol:

[giddonah]

Oh, I just thought, can they sell you the two pieces without joining them? That way, you can miter it the way you need it.

[roger g]

Ohhhhh I hate cutting counter tops. It makes my sphincter muscle hurt. I would never be able to cut good enough to join them. End cuts and holes for sinks are bad enough!



roger

[VALENT]

so thats why the old countertop was made of tile....
is the angle 95degrees or 85 degrees?

[Tom R]

I doubt very much you'd get them to cut any other angle, - - they work off of jigs, - - production, production, - - and besides, - - it wouldn't be proper to install an L-shaped countertop 'off-angle', - - the best thing to do in this situation (besides of course re-doing the wall correctly), - - is to use a 'self-edge' (standard) countertop, - - and order the backsplash separate and unattached, - - then cut the 'off-angle' at the back of your short-ell, - - and then let the backsplash 'ride' with the wall.

[roger g]

Valent: the old top was arborite glued to plywood so they could adapt to angle. The tile was above the counter top on the wall. Not sure what the angle really is though I know it isn't 90 degrees

Tom:not a bad idea but you would have to have both halves with the same style of back splash and they would be really boxy looking. An idea though worth thinking about.
Couldnt straighten the wall because there is a doorway and then more cupboards. Ceiling changes, flooring on the other side, moving cabinets. No, the wall stays.
I'm going to check with a manufacturer because now that I think of it I've seen counter tops the shape of a hockey stick.


roger

[VALENT]

hey roger I guess my question is on the short ell where would the gap be? Towards the corner or the outside end? You may be able to increase the gap in the corner so that the countertop will fit and then fill that area(build out that wall) instead of trying to take all the difference out of the short section. Now, is that as clear as mud?

[Pokey]

Any good countertop company should cut a top to fit any angle you desire. Most saws today are equiped with a laser that will read off any angle to the nearest .5 degree i believe. If you template the top with some underlayment or cardboard and deliver it to them they should make it to your specs. I worked for a kitchen and bath supply house for some time and ran into this a lot. This should not hold production up in the least. I did a remodel earlier this year and had them order the material in, and when i was ready delivered the template to the and they fabricated the top.

[Tom R]

Yeah, - - may be, - - but what I'm sayin' is, - - whatever is done should be done on the 'back' side, - - an L-shaped counter-top should be just that, - - L-shaped (90 degrees).

Another option might be to cut a long piece of tapered pine and fit it between the splash and the wall (flush with the top of the splash), - - and paint it the wall color.

[roger g]

valent: the gap is at the end, not at the corner. First I tried taking out some drywall in the corner and it looke like it was helping but then I noticed that I was creating a problem at the end of the long end where the stove was. I had ordered an exact fit and by pushing the top into the drywall 1/2 inch I was 1/2 inch short at the stove.
I sorted some of the problem today only because of the way the cupboars were (hard to explain) I'm just trying to get some answers in case I run into this again.
The home I take possession of next week also has an arborite top which I will remove and itis also 90 degrees (maybe(. I also hope tp take out the chimney, fireplace, kitchen wall and redo the bathroom , enlarge some windows and put in a man door through an outside wall. The wife thinks it should be done in a few weeks. Yeh right!


roger

[Thumper]

Can you simply leave as is & cover the gap with a nice little salt & pepper shaker shelf along the length of the L - call it a built in spice rack "feature" for the wife if you like! :-)

[Pokey]

My question is this. Tom mentioned the countertop should be 90 degrees and i agree to some extent. I agree if the cabinets are installed at the perfect 90 degree angle also. However, in this case the least amount of headache is to have the coutertop made to fit this angle. this keeps from having to pull all of the cabinets away from the wall to keep the 90 degree angle, shimming behind them, skinning the last cabnet becase it will now be deeper than 24" and if there is a stove there, the extra depth will be noticable due to the fact that the front of the stove need to match the front of the countertops. Then what happens if more cabinets need to be installed on the other side of the stove? I ran into this problem in a remodel job i did and learned the hardway. I don't mean to challenge tom, i agree it should be done right in the first place when the house was built, but i don't think leaving that gap is the best option. I hate fixing other people's mess ups....

[Tom R]

Can't argue any of your logic, Pokey, - - I guess it boils down to each individual situation, - - and whether you want to make your work 'off' to match someone else's. Sometimes that may just be the answer.

[roger g]

Yo Thumper: I actually like that idea. Not for this time but maybe next time. Spice rack, ledge etc etc.. I'm thinin' I'm thinkin'



roger

[Tom R]

Yo, yo, - - it is a good idea.