retain wall options?

[navakahn]

posted this in masonry and then realized it might fit better here:

my back yard has a fairly steep slope and i'm planning to terrace it with a series of retaining walls. local code requires all walls over 4 ft (from the base of footing) to be permitted and engineered. i'd prefer not to pay for engineering plans and soil reports if i can avoid it, so i've thought that i would stick to walls of four feet or less.

i was originally planning to build block walls with rebar and mortar, but i've heard good things about interlocking block walls and, i have to admit, the ease of installation is appealing. but i don't know much about them. are they considered a reasonable long-term option in terms of stability? i would guess that with appropriate drainage they'd be fine - plus, i'd guess that moisture could seep through the cracks and relieve pressure if necessary - but most of the walls i see going up around here (los angeles) are reninforced block. just wasn's sure if this was a matter of price or due to its superior long-term stability.

i'd welcome any comments and/or advice, as it must surely be clear that i'm new to this.

thanks,
jason

[giddonah]

Well, I like the idea of stepping. I have a 8' or so slope I'm going to step eventually. The interlocking blocks so far are my front runners.

[montytx]

Weve got interlocking all over my part of town and they hold up fine. Dont forget to use the adhesive to hold them in place.

[RaymondB]

I just completed a similar project in New Jersey. I wanted to stay below the 4 foot height for each of two walls so as to avoid engineering etc. Well the state considers the two 4 ft. walls an 8 ft. wall because they are on a common slope. Long story short I had to pay $1000 for a sealed design. Check with your building inspector first.

[concretemasonry]

Most codes have closed the "loop-hole" of separating the walls a little bit. They can be stepped to be treated separately, but the set back distance depends on the soil and terrain. This is to prevent a "globa" (engineering term) which rlates to the whole hill from quickly coming down at once.

SWR walls are NEVER adhered nad NEVER put on concrete footings. Adhering is a temporary of time and permanent cost of money since the block shape and gravity provide the stability.

[Paves]

I do it for a living but the best wall for the money has got to be precast. one of my favs is this one it does need to be glued on every coarse unlike most other blocks but it's nice because it doesn't step back.http://www.designhardscapes.com/Flash/pics/16.jpg

do some research before you start. if you plan on 1 hour budget for two and when your done if the first coarse of wall didn't take half the time you did it wrong :)


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