Framing the Gable Roof Truss Overhang?

[peterjcb]

I'll be setting my roof/room trusses this Saturday and it occured to me that I'm not sure how to frame the overhang on my two gable end trusses. I'll be working with a 18" overhang across the front of my building and I assume that I'll carry that to both Gable overhangs.
Do I just extend the OSB 18" past the gable truss and run a board down the underneath???
I understand that there may be a few different ways to approach this. :?

[Rich]

Does your truss package come with a drop truss for the gable or barge trusses? If so it makes it really easy to frame the overhangs - and it's very solid. If the package doesn't include that - it's just as easy but not as strong.

[peterjcb]

Hi Rich,
No, my buddy was telling me about an end truss that sits 1 1/2" lower that the others for the end. I don't have that setup... :(
What do I have to do. I'm not too concerned about stregnth because I don't intent on walking on the end of the roof very much.. 8)

[Rich]

I like them to sit 3 1/2" lower. Then I make a ladder out of 2x4 on the ground - raise it up and nail it to the next rafter.. anyway.
On your sub-fascia board, which should be 2x6, you will run it long by the 18" or whatever your overhang will be. Run the sheeting long, like you said, and run a gable sub-fascia from the ridge down to the eave sub-fascia. Make sure the gable sub-fascia wraps over the end of the eave sub-fascia. To give it a little more strength I typically run 2x4's underneath from the gable rafter to the gable sub-fascia. These also help with finishing off the underside of the overhang with 3/8" plywood or similar material.

[peterjcb]

I called the designer of the plan that I purchased and he suggested that I don't exceed a side gable overhang at 12" past the actual framing (not the brick veneer) and that I ladder frame it. That should put it at about a 7" overhang past the brick veneer.
My Front overhang will be 18" (about 12-13" past the brick). I hope it will look alright.... :?

[Rich]

I agree the ladder frame is the best method if you have a drop truss.. but in your case it may not be the easiest to get up under the sheathing. I suppose you could install it first and then sheath over top. Not too difficult.

[peterjcb]

Rich, He suggested that I first extend the sheathing 12" past the frame and them build my ladder underneath and nail it to the outside end truss and sheathing to firm things up. It think that it will look OK.
With the knowledge that I have now....I would have done some things differently to have saved myself extra time and labor but I'm still happy with the way it's turning out. It's just a little more effort on my part this time.
It's snowing here pretty heavy right now. I hope that I'm able to stay on my timetable of setting up my trusses on Saturday ( it's supposed to be in the 50's Saturday )

[Rich]

Right on.. take some pictures during and after so we can see what it looks like.

[roger g]

I remember having the identical problem many years ago trying to figure how to do the gable end. When someone explained about the shorter truss and the ladder it solved all the problem. Trouble was that the information came about a month late but information is information. It always comes in handy

roger

[Rich]

Sounds like it's a similar case here also.. oh well. What peter has described will work just fine.. just not as good in my opinion.

[opie1]

How does the ladder assembly work for diaphram nailing purposes ? They seem to be pretty particular around here about perimeter nailing being
complete including the gables and blocks. I just rolled the trusses for my shop last week and ended up doing it the old way by notching the lookouts
into my gable. I like the ladder idea...