Stair railing

[VALENT]

So, how hard is it to put in the stair railing? I'm gathering up all the materials and will be starting pretty soon to put up the railing in the upstairs hall and landing and then will be working on the stairs. I appreciate any insight anyone is willing to share. It is about 5 steps to a landing and then a 90 degree turn to the left and 9 more steps to the upstairs.

[Tom R]

Not really hard, - - I'd describe it more like 'methodical'.

Don't know what style you're installing, - - but one 'general' method would be to install and 'plumb' the posts first, - - then set your rail(s) right on the steps alongside them and trace the (vertical) inside edges to determine your length and angle at the same time.

Don't know if you're using 'pins' or fillet strips, - - whether your using a top and bottom rail, - - or just a top, and the spindles go down to the floor/treads.

Be glad to try to help if you have any direct questions.

[Dragon]

I always draw mine out on the wall. Before I make a single cut I know where everything goes and how it is going to fit.

[VALENT]

Thanks already. OK 1. How do you secure the newel posts to the subfloor?(all plywood) I will be using the balusters that have a pin on the bottom which I intend to insert into 3/4 inch holes in a 1x4 which will be nailed/glued to the subfloor and treads.2. Are the pins supposed to be glued into the holes? If so, what kind of glue? 3. How do you connect the rail to the newel posts?

[Tom R]

Not sure of your exact situation, - - posts are strongest when 'notched' over the tread and riser. Maximum lateral strength will be dictated by maximum vertical distance between fastening points.

1. Landing Post (floor attachment only) - - drill 2 holes straight into the floor and two matching holes straight into the underside of the post (situated diagonally) to accept 'glued-up' dowels.

2. Yes to 'glue', - - Titebond II or Titebond III yellow carpenters glue

3. At bottom of rails, run 2" steel screws both diagonally upward and diagonally inward from the underside of the railing into the post. Run the screws toward each other in a 'clasped' position. At the top of rails, run them into the post from the sides-in or the top-down and plug the holes with wooden plugs. Hidden fasteners can also be devised, but of course, a little more complicated.

[VALENT]

Thanks, TomR. We started putting up the railing and found the handrail to have a slight bow. So, some of the balusters are a little bit off the floor board(but still well within the the "pin" holes). And it definitely is "methodical" as you wrote.

[SFI]

Not sure of your exact situation, - - posts are strongest when 'notched' over the tread and riser. Maximum lateral strength will be dictated by maximum vertical distance between fastening points.

1. Landing Post (floor attachment only) - - drill 2 holes straight into the floor and two matching holes straight into the underside of the post (situated diagonally) to accept 'glued-up' dowels.

2. Yes to 'glue', - - Titebond II or Titebond III yellow carpenters glue

3. At bottom of rails, run 2" steel screws both diagonally upward and diagonally inward from the underside of the railing into the post. Run the screws toward each other in a 'clasped' position. At the top of rails, run them into the post from the sides-in or the top-down and plug the holes with wooden plugs. Hidden fasteners can also be devised, but of course, a little more complicated.

A little late but oh well.

They make specific rail bolts and dowel screws to fasten railing to newel post and ballusters to shoe plate. I dont think I would want my 80 year old grandma's last chance of not falling down the stairs to be held in place by wood screws :cry: I build and install bending and straight handrails all day and would never use wood screws to fasten it to anything, Unless your using fir rails in which case the rail woudn't hold up anyway :D Not ragging on you but I would never pass inspection with it held together with wood screws.

[Tom R]

Where do you think the railing is trying to go, - - with 20 some odd spindles holding it up??

Sideways??, - - I'll give you one free hit with a 'sledge'.

I guess you could attach it with railroad spikes if your gran-ma is that rambunctious!!

[SFI]

For one it looks like a monkey's ass :D Two I'll give you an hour with a sledge with one put together the RIGHT way. I thought that when you put in railing some of it was to improve the look of the home/building? Somehow wood screws aren't real atractive to me :roll: If you like the wood screw lok by all means use it but there are other/better ways to hold a railing together.

[Tom R]

Not attractive to me either, - - that's why I make sure you can't see them. Sounds like your imagination's working overtime. Try to get your mind off the monkey. :lol:

[VALENT]

sfi, tell me how to go about it the "correct" way.

[SFI]

Not sure why I can't post pics you'll have to cut and paste but here goes.

Use these for the ballusters to the shoe plate

http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=192

http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=193


Use these to fasten the rail to the newels


http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=262

And these to fasten the newel's to the sub-floor

http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=164

Much stronger than wood screws and all hidden 8)

[Tom R]

Umm, - - I wasn't discussing a railing going 'over' the newell's, - - I may be wrong, - - but beings it wasn't mentioned I took for granted we were discussing something more basic, - - railings going 'between' newells.

[SFI]

I was talking about rail between the newels thats why theres this link

http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=262

[Tom R]

OK, - - nothing wrong with that, of course, - - it's a glorified stud bolt, - - a couple bucks max at HD.

Not arguing your way, - - but 'screw-and-glue' works for me.

Basic carpentry.

[Tom R]

Actually, that bolt does look like it would hold up pretty good to a sledge hammer, - - but then, - - the two 'clasped' screws will prevent any 'twisting' from internal stresses in the wood, - - later, - - after you are long gone.

[Dragon]

I generally use the dowel bolt, with a liberal application of glue on the end then pin nail it in place to stop any twist before the glue dries.