cement backer board or green board

[rookie]

I am planning on tiling my shower and my sheetrock guy used greenboard in the shower. I had a guy tell me this morning that greenboard is a poor product for laying tile on and that the sheetrock contractor should have used durock or a similar product. So will the green board work or not?

[CThomp]

The green board will work but its just not as durable or moisture resistant as durarock or any other related cement backerboard product. So if he hasn't tiled yet then I'd have him take it down and put up a cement board for longevity/durability purposes. Heck just hang the stuff your self. Its pretty easy to do. Plus, the cement board is alot harder than green board. So say someone gets really angry and decides to punch the walls in your shower, they'll break their hand rather than the wall. They'd probably break a hand anyhow but the shower will likely go unharmed.

[giddonah]

even though I use hardiboard under tile, greenboard will be ok IF the tile is installed right. By the time the greenboard falls apart, you'll probably be wanting a new bathroom anyway. If the tile is ok, the greenboard will be ok too. Hardiboard is peace of mind though, knowing that the thing will be there for a LONG time.

[rookie]

If I do replace it how do I handle the joints on the cement board. Do they have to be mudded and taped like sheetrock? If I dont replace it is there some kind of waterproofing membrane I can put on the green board? I found some information on Scluter shower pans and they offer a membrane that can be applied to walls and floors of tiled showers. Anyone familiar with such a thing?

[CThomp]

Never heard of the membrane. Cement board handles the same as the greenboard on the walls. I like the mesh tape. Its a prefrence thing I guess. Just make sure you get it decent smooth with no screw heads protruding. It doesn't have to be perfect though. You're covering it up anyhow. Otherwise your tiles won't install correctly. Thinset or mastic is a preference thing as well. Just make sure you by the highest quality stuff you can find.

[Tom R]

If I do replace it how do I handle the joints on the cement board. Do they have to be mudded and taped like sheetrock? If I dont replace it is there some kind of waterproofing membrane I can put on the green board? I found some information on Scluter shower pans and they offer a membrane that can be applied to walls and floors of tiled showers. Anyone familiar with such a thing?

For the joints on the cement board, - - yes, - - mud and tape, - - but just one coat is fine.

Greenboard works just fine, - - as long as, like giddonah said, it's done correctly, - - meaning mainly that the bottom of it runs about 1/2" above the tub ledge, so the water can't wick up.

Otherwise, the only way the greenboard will fail is if the grout is done wrong.

Done right the greenboard will last 25 to 35 years, - - the cement board will last 50 or more.

The average bath remodel is between 12 and 20 years anyway.

[rgramjet]

I have to disagree with you and Gidonnah, Tom.

Ive pulled out several shower surrounds this year that were done with greenboard. They ranged from 7-10 years of age. The grout all looked fine until I pushed on the wall. I could have pushed it through to the next wall surface! The greenboard was damp and soft.

I will only use Durock or a cement board of similar density on shower/tub surrounds. For the extra $20 in materials it brings a ton of piece of mind.

[Tom R]

Then again, any job can fail if not done right.

On the opposite side of the spectrum, - - I once pulled apart a ceramic tile wall on 3/8" drywall that had been there 35 damn years.

Not a thing wrong with it, - - homeowner just thought "it was about that time".

I base a product's life-span on it's 'best' installation, - - and then install accordingly.

[rgramjet]

I think it also depends on how the people use the shower. A person that takes a 5 minute shower with good ventilation in the room wont have many problems even with a bad grout job.

A person with an enclosed shower stall that takes 30 minute steam showers will encounter moisture problems even with a "good" grout job.

Hows business Tom? Ill be heading your way (Mercerville) tomorrow to suck down some rack of Venison and a 45lb bird!! I think my family gets it fresh from DiPaola turkey farms.

Always a great time in friggin Joysey!

[Tom R]

Business is just great, Rog, - - right now I'm lucky enough to be doing two bathrooms in the same house, - - just 6 or 7 doors down from my own house.

Yeah, I'm familiar with DePaola right there on Edinburg Road, - - I grew up right around the corner from there (off Paxson Avenue).

Have fun and have a great Thanksgiving!!

[perryrip]

Rookie,

If you want the correct information on how to prepare your shower for tiling I highly recommend you go to www.johnbridge.com forum and learn the appropriate process. The correct method is to use a vapor barrier on the framing, followed by cement board material properly sealed at joints and corners, followed by thinset, tile, and grout (and grout sealer unless you use lacticrete grout). Sure you can take a chance with greenboard, but that is not the recommended material.

perryrip

[Dragon]

Sealing makes a big difference. Grout was never intended to be waterproof.

[CThomp]

I'm a huge fan of clear caulking. You can't see it and its an extra layer of protection. Especially on corners and around fixtures.