Tyvek window & door cutouts

[wasjr]

See 1st link below for photos of first window cutout in Tyvek Home Wrap just installed by framers on our new house. Our GC has agreed to have framers hold off on further cutouts until we can confirm they're being done correctly. Our windows will be Pella Architectural Series Wood Exterior, which come with factory-installed brickmold (not integral flanges like, say, the Pella Impervia series). I've reviewed the Tyvek and Pella installation guides, as well as other threads and links in this forum. My concerns at this point are:
(1) All four of the Tyvek flaps resulting from the window cut have been trimmed flush with the inside edge of the rough opening, and have been fastened with many staples to the inside (i.e., wide face) of the rough opening boards. This detail is not shown on all Tyvek & Pella installation guides, but in those where it is shown: (a) the bottom and side flaps extend all the way through the rough opening and are fastened to the adjacent studs on the interior face of the framed walls (i.e., no fasteners are placed on the rough opening boards themselves), and (b) the top flap is cut back several inches above the header, then peeled up and temporarily taped to the exterior face of the wall (for future fastening over the flashing later installed above the top brickmold of the window).
(2) The Pella Architectural Series window installation guide (see 2nd link below) is quite brief compared to the guides for other types of Pella windows (e.g., Pella Impervia) and for wood/brickmold windows by other manufacturers (e.g., Jeld-Wen). It does not detail the Tyvek window cutout, and does not provide for field-flashing of the window sides and top prior to installation.

My questions are: (1) should I be concerned by any of this, and (2) are the issues any different for the cutouts & flashing of the door openings? Thanks.

Photo link: http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r205/wasjr01/TyvekWindowCutout01/
Pella Installation Guide link: http://www.pella.com/resources/pdf/AS_Wood_Window.pdf

[CThomp]

The tyvek job looks like Tyveks instructions. The only thing I noticed was the top flap of the Tyvek cut out. Refer to the directions on Tyveks web page.

If you want to get really fancy with anything, look into have Tyvek flashing tape installed on the sills per Tyveks instructions.

Once the windows are installed I be more concerned about the flashing around the windows per the manufacturers instructions. I think most are pretty much the same.

Use flashing tape and go from the bottom, then the sides, and then the top over lapping.

[Rich]

The Pella installation is correct. The most important 2 parts of their installation is the caulking and the head flashing. Without a nailing fin there isn't anything to "overlap" with the Tyvek. If trying to overlap the Tyvek to the brick molding you would end up making the installation worse - not better.
Use the caulking and headflashing - you'll be fine. My recommendation would be different if there was a nailing fin.

[CThomp]

Was I right at all? I just followed Tyveks directions.

[Rich]

If the window style had a nailing flange I would agree 100%.

[CThomp]

good stuff.

[Tom_E]

Rich,
Would you mind giving your thoughts on flashing a window with out nail fins ? I would appreciate the guidance, Tom

[Rich]

Honestly - there isn't a surefire way to completely seal a non-flanged, non-brick mold window. The problem is not having something integrated into the window that also can be integrated into the wall.
My criteria for any possible water intrusion point is to have a minimum of 2 stand-alone methods to fight water intrusion. Such as with a flanged window - metal head flashing and forti-fiber flashing as well as caulking the flange. Pretty much bomb proof.
For non-flanged windows I would suggest using backer rod and a durable fifty year caulk to seal between the window and the framing opening. The backer rod allows a full depth solid seal at the surface of the wall (where the water is most likely to enter). In addition to that I would suggest using metal head flashing that is integrated into the housewrap (sealed with applicable products tape and housewrap overlapped the top of head flashing). I also suggest running the head flashing 1/2" past the edges of the trim with a bead of caulking along top and around the sides of the flashing as extra security.
I should clarify another point as well - if a non-flanged window can be set flush to the exterior of the wall without obstructions you can still use typical window flashing (forti fiber or similar). Care during installation will help with hiding the flashing after trim.
This post is a little disjointed.. final thoughts would be look at the installation instructions of the specific window you are dealing with.. most likely it will suggest some variation of what is outlined above.

[Tom_E]

Rich,
I thank you, I will be reading your reply over a number of times and apply the suggestions there in. I apperciate your time and expertise. Tom

[Sweep]

DuPont makes a double-sided butyl flashing called "StraightFlash VF" for use with factory trimmed non-fin type windows.

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/products/residential/products/straightflashVF.html

[JCA]

My suggestion is this: On remaining cutouts, fold bottom tyvek flap into RO then seal sill with flashing tape, then fold in side tyvek flaps, then install window and head flashing then fold top tyvek flap over head flashing and tape in place.

[JCA]

sorry, not used to sites with threads this old, not much going on here hu?

[David]

It'll pickup over spring/summer.

[tinner666]

Full details here. This works with all systems, flanged or not.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm

[tinner666]

Christ. I just saw the date on this thread.