Start of the basement

[baum]

Over the weekend I got bored. The wife was out of town and had nothing to do. So I sat down at the computer and started to layout the basement. Right now I just did this corner of the basement. Shown below is what I started with for my cad drawing and then the print of a wall section, followed by the finished pic. She came home and was surprised.

I used Solidworks software. I use it all day at work doing mechanical design so I figured i could for this too. I was able to purchase just enough wood for the project with only a couple extra (incase of mess ups). This is also my first time for doing this. I thought it went pretty smooth.



http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m9/aaronajb/cornerlayout.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m9/aaronajb/wall1.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m9/aaronajb/house3.jpg

[Mike44]

WOW!!! Hey, nice lookin' photos there and that plan looks amazing! If only all contractors could use that kind of software so you can see what the end product will look like!

This is to section off your mechanical room right? It's actually a nice idea - keep it all hidden away and stuff.

Looks pretty good and I hope the rest of the project goes just as well!!

P.S. Did you put any moisture barrier between the concrete and the wood? Like that layer of foam stuff that you can buy in a little roll and unroll it along the floor to put the 2x4 on? I don't know, I saw them do it on a TV show one time (Holmes on Homes).

[Don_P]

Looks good. A couple of things I see that might help as you go along. Look to the right of the near door where the wall intersects and you used 2 horizontal blocks to anchor the intersection. We usually make a "Wall T" or "Trough", a stud in the near wall on each side of the intersecting wall seperated by a middle stud against the end stud of the intersecting wall, sort of like a C channel.Stud,flat stud,stud I_I. The flatways stud can be 3 scrap blocks a foot or so long. The T gives you backing for drywall and anchors the intersecting wall. You can also block on 2' centers and nail 2x6 blocking along the back of the stud for backup. Theres several ways but the goals are to connect the walls to each other well and provide something to nail the sheet goods to.

Mike is talking about sill seal, it will work but nothing makes our inspectors happier than seeing treated wood against masonry.

[baum]

Actually there is a small 1/8" gap between the concrete and the stud and its not fastened to the ground yet or the concrete wall. I did this because i didnt know the true building code as of then.

Here it is now.
Insulated exterior walls must be covered on the interior with not less than a 4-mil vapor barrier. Fire-retardant poly is required if not covered with gypsum wallboard or other approved material. Provide a moisture barrier over the concrete walls prior to framework. (poly vapor barrier is not a moisture barrier when used alone.)


So here is my question, with my unnderstanding on this i will put a vapor barrier against the concrete, and the 2 x 4 before the wallboard goes up? Also what should I use for the vapor barrier against the concrete?


Not to mention I would like to start doing this for side work. I do enjoy it, and think i could do pretty good at it once i learn more about codes. Along with nice and pretty views like this i can do a 3D walk through or even make a photo-realistic rendering of a room too.

Thanks

[Mike44]

Mike is talking about sill seal, it will work but nothing makes our inspectors happier than seeing treated wood against masonry.

Yes, definately use pressure treated wood against the concrete walls and floor, but only if there isn't a membrane separating them - that is basic code. It would be best to go above it and use the sill seal (thanks Don for the name!!) and the treated wood. That's how it's done in new construction homes when building off of the foundation.