Question about trusses/lookouts/etc...

[GregW]

First time installing roof trussess. Not on a house, but on a carport. Dimensions of the carport are 25 1/2 feet wide by 30 feet deep. I have 2 gable end trusses, just not sure if they are "drop" trusses or if they are the same height as the others. (from what I've read, drop trusses would seem to be better :) )

The carport is eight 6'x6' posts with 2"x10" boards doubled up at the top. The 6'x6' posts have a notch cut into the top of them to hold the 2"x10" The 2"x10" are bolted to the 6'x6' posts using 1/2" bolts. The 2"x10" are offset so the joints on the outside edge are different then the joints on the inside edge. The 2"x10" are bolted together as well using 1/2" bolts. I am going to set the trusses on top of the double 2"x10".

Now here are my questions.

1) The 2X10 boards on my carport are extended past the ends of the carport about 16" or so. These are doubled up. I left them long so I could have an overhang on the end. Should this work IF I build the 2x4 ladder on the end? Or should I cut them off even with the end of the carport and then build the 2x4 ladder. (I guess the type of overhang depends on the type of truss huh?) Assuming the trusses are all the same height, should I leave the overhang or cut it off?

2) I have read some information regarding "blocks" between the trusses to help support the trusses. Sorta understand it but not sure if it is needed or necessary. Some articles mention the blocks and some don't. I "assumed" that I set the trusses on top of the 2"x10" then toe-nailed them in. (I will also be using hurricane straps on every truss.) Seems like the "blocks" would add extra support, just not sure if they are necessary.

Any other suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,

greg

[Rich]

Some say the blocks are only to stabilize the truss during installation.. Depending on what the fascia/soffit is finished like I think it helps with attachment of that underframing - they also give a place for the insulation to stop and for baffles to start.
If your gable trusses are "dropped" I would cut the 2x10's flush with the building. If they are straight I would leave it and use it for bearing the fascia rafters. One thing - if the trusses are dropped it still won't hurt to leave the 2x10's there - they could be used as an architectural element with knee braces, etc.
Sounds like your plan is pretty sound - good luck.

[GregW]

Thanks. I 'll let you know how it turns out.

greg

[Glasshousebltr]

yea, it sounds like ya have a good handle on it.

Here's a tip though:
As you begin setting your truss, string a line on one side at the tail where the facia goes, and make sure you set all the truss on that line. It's best to hold the line out away from the tail slightly to prevent the truss from gradually moving the line out as you set.

Doing this will only leave you having to adjust for facia on one side.

Have fun

Bob

[GregW]

Thanks for the replies. It actually went pretty well. We set all 16 trusses in less then 2 hours. Took a little longer for the "fake" trusses on the gable ends. But, it was all ok. We got the trusses set, the fascia board on and the roof sheathing on by the end of the day. There were only 3 of us for the most part of the day. One thing that really helped us was to put a 1"x4" on the top AND bottom chord as we went. Helped to stabilize the trusses better. (or so it seemed :) ) The sheathing went on very well. Now onto the shingles :)

Thanks again. This site is very informative. Maybe one day I will be able to contribute as well.

greg

[Rich]

Glad it all worked out. Biggest thing with shingles is starting off right. After that it's a cake walk.