Roofing nails

[Peachey]

I am currently having the roof on my garage and home replaced. The garage roof is finished and I have noticed that the roofing nails are protruding through the plywood in the ceiling in the garage (ceiling is also the roofing deck). The nails stick out with no wood around it. In several places. small pieces of the plywood have broken off where the nails are installed and have fallen to the garage floor. The installer told me that he used 1 1/2" roofing nails which is the standard size and that the plywood is too thin. ( he told me the thickness but I can't recall what he said it was). He also said the previous roof nails also protruded through the plywood (I didn't notice). Does this explanation sound feasible? Shoud he have used smaller nails? Do you think I will have problems with this later? If so, how should it be corrected? The garage was an "add on" so I don't know if the house is the same. Any advice will be appreciated at your earliest convenience (before the contractor finishes installing the roof if possible). Thank you very much.

[Rich]

Typically plywood on a home is 1/2" (I personally prefer 5/8" - but 1/2" with clips will work). Either way 1/2" or 5/8" wouldn't matter with an 1-1/2" nail. In the perfect world it would be nice to see the nails hit the trusses/rafters but it doesn't always happen that way.
Remembering back a ways I was always told that screws/nails should not protrude into the air space above a ceiling due to condensation eventually rusting the screw through. Due to the interior/exterior temperature differences causing condensation.
Grumpy could probably give a more practical answer for you regarding standard length of nails and type.

[Peachey]

The ceiling of the garage looks terrible - the nails are protruding with chips of wood gouged out of the plywood where they were installed. Was this done correctly? The installer had to replace a couple rotted plywood panels in the garage ceiling and these also show nail damage.

[grumpydasmurf]

The protruding nails is a good thing. Maybe not cosmetically but as far as quality goes you know each nail you see is a nail that's holding. I don't know about the condensation statement, but with proper attic ventilation there shouldn;t be any condensation.

This is very typical, even in old homes. We always buy our nails long enough that they will come out of the bottom side of the roof deck. This way I know each nail is holding to it's maximum potential. Min. length for most roofers would be 1 1/4" for new construction or a tear off. 1 1/2"+ for a lay over.

It's impossible for the nails to hit the trusses/rafters since shingles have to be staggered and regardless of stagger the nails have to be in specific locations in the shingles. The rafters/trusses are not staggered so the nails will never line up.

[Rich]

I understand that they would never line up - my statement was only in regards to the question that in a perfect world yes it would be nice to have them hit rafters/trusses.
Thanks for answering Grumpy.

[doyle]

In my work, which is always new construction, I try to buy the shortest nails possible (1") which still protrude through the 7/16" roof decking. I prefer to use the 7/8" nails, but the same box of 7200 coil nails is $42 vs $19 (go figure....shorter nail - more money).

But for the storage buildings I build, the whole interior of the structure is visible, so the shorter nails are more for safety than anything else.

My brother's tract home in MS, built in the early 70's, has 3/8" plywood for roof decking and his roof was also recently re-roofed using 1-1/2" nails. I agree is common practice to use the 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" nails for most jobs.

[grumpydasmurf]

shorter nail = more money... supply and demand. They probably sell a ton less of the shorter nails.

[Peachey]

Thanks for the information everyone! As a homeowner, this is my first new roof!

So "bottom line" - even though the nails protrude and have chipped off the plywood (causing pieces of wood to fall to the garage floor) and show through in the roof deck panels in the garage - this is an acceptable installation???

I don't think condensation shouldn't be a problem, should it - ? - the garage is unfinished and the area is open.

Also, could someone advise as to whether I received a fair price for this job (I live in Ohio). The young man doing the job for me has his own business and does gutter work, roofing and siding in addition to a full time job as a fireman. He has to depend on hired help, days off and the weather which has been heavy rain and thunderstorms for the last three days. The garage roof is completed and the tarpaper is almost completely installed on the house (three days of work so far and no leaks even with the rain!).

QUOTE: $4,600.00 (includes garage and house):

23 sq 30 yr Dm shingles (what does "Dm" mean?)
New drip edge
New flashing
New 15# tar paper
Renail underlayment
Tear-off - haul away

Some plywood panels were replaced so I think that will probably add to the final cost.

Also the contractor gouged my lawn with his trailer in a small area - how does one usually handle something like this or am I being too picky - it's not the greatest lawn anyway.

Sorry this is so long - thanks for any responses.

[grumpydasmurf]

To answer your question... Yes it is an acceptable isntallation.

Condensation won't be a problem if vents were installed... yes even on a garage vents should be installed. A typicaly Chicago gargae, 22' x 22' with a 5/12 pitch gets 2 mushroom vents.

The price seems fair, but I don't know the going rate in Ohio or what was done. I do know I would have charged you about $10 more per square... but I am making alot of assumptions and don't know enough details.

As far as lawn damage goes, if it is bad he should credit you a few bucks for the repairs. But let's be realistic, if the law is a disaster does this gouge really take away from the beauty? Personally if I was your contractor I'd bring some grass seed with me and personally sprinkle the seed on the gouge and leave the rest of the bag with you.