Bedroom finally

[BigGun]

I am starting an addition on my house wich is adobe,so addition needs to be flat roof,and walls will be framed from 2x6, Thing is i am no carpenter and cant afford one,but am very capable of doing it provided i can get good info.wanting to use the TJI trusses and if possible make it two story, do the trusses sit on top of wall framework or do they tie in. its a small town here and when i order them i dont want them to short. there is not much resourses here for info,any help appreciated !

[Don_P]

Platform framing;
Wall with top plates, joists on top of the wall, subfloor on joists, wall with plates, ceiling joists on top. Don't hang wood if you can sit it on something.

[Richard A Hetzel]

Also, usually the joist manufacturers require you to use their own rim joist, which is not as thick as a piece of 2x sawn lumber. If the span is long, and especially with a wall load on top of the floor joists, you may also need web stiffeners at the ends of the joists, and crush blocking also, which takes the load from above past the second floor joists down to the top of the wall. Study the manufacturer's literature carefully...ask for a full catalog, so you can be aware of those requirements.

Also, be aware of where the joist manufacturer allows holes in the joist webs, and how big they may be, and where they can and cannot be located, and be there when the plumbers, especially, start installing their pipes. If you don't watch them, they can be brutal on a structure.

Don't [B]ever [B] cut a joist flange, for any reason, except as allowed by the manufacturer, which is almost never. And read the manufacturer's literature carefully concerning bounce in the floor. A joist which is strong enough to carry the loads adequately may not be stiff enough to minimize floor bounce.

[BigGun]

Ok that does help, another question is about the corner walls,how to make them a bit rounded unstead of squared off to keep with the adobe style ?
I was reading some other threads and noticed some difference in oppinions on stud lengths, i would like the ceiling to be ten foot high,what size should my studs be when framing ?

[BigGun]

I wish i could give my deminsions and what i am wanting to somebody with architect type drawings and have them draw it up for me, no residential here.I dont know what that would cost but i would sure pay for a good working print!

[Richard A Hetzel]

Probably whatever you would spend for a good set of drawings would be saved, perhaps many times over, in construction costs and headaches.

What is your exterior finish going to be? I gather it won't be a true adobe, since you are talking about stud walls.

[BigGun]

Figured on stucco, as thats whats over the adobe walls now, I can build anything with metal but if i drive a nail the wood splits, so bought a framer gun and a finisher.

[Richard A Hetzel]

You can probably work out a corner detail for the framing, that allows a curved corner in the stucco. Something like this:
http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=236984487/PictureID=5243814488/a=122549428_122549428/t_=122549428

[BigGun]

Ok will do, how about i take a solid 6x6 beam and round it off,would that work as far as passing an inspection?
also about the stud lengths for the walls,can someone help me there,i will be purchasing them this weekend,would like the room highth to be around 10'

[Richard A Hetzel]

The stud length should be the ceiling height, plus the thickness of the ceiling finish (such as 1/2-inch for gyp. bd.), minus the thicknesses of the sill plate and the top plate. Those are usually 1 1/2 inches each. So 10'-0" + 0'-0 1/2" - 0'-4 1/2" = 9'-8". They will probably sell you 10-footers.

[Don_P]

You putting a finished floor in that box Richard ;)
116" + finish floor thickness

A 6x6 would work.

[Joe Carola]

would like the room highth to be around 10'

Why don't you use 10' precuts?

[BigGun]

ok,10 footers it will be, yes the floor will be wood when finished out,ole buddy hauls trailers full of oak,cherry,apple,wood planks from kentucky,he says he will supply some nice wood for floor. any suggestions from any of yall will help me, any tricks of the trade or ideas, as ive said i am NOT a carpenter at all, Thanks much for what ive got so far

[Don_P]

Wow, an apple floor would be one of a kind, I've never been able to get more than a few small planks out of those trees. Its a pretty wood but can tie itself in a knot as it dries. The scraps are great on the grill though. Cherry is one of my favorite woods (makes a yummy steak too). It moves alot while drying but is then one of the most stable woods, typeface used to be made of it because it would stat flat. Oak has tanked in price here, might be a good value. If resale in the near future is a concern use the current "hot" choice locally. We tend to cycle from ring porous woods like oak to diffuse porous woods like maple or cherry... kinda like following hemlines in fashion.

[Joe Carola]

ok,10 footers it will be,

Are you using 10' or 10' precuts? 10' precuts are 116-5/8" and you don't have to cut any studs. If you buy 10' 2x's you will have to cut every stud.

[BigGun]

i will have to get 10' and cut each one, as the lumberyard here doesnt have precuts.and yes they bring a lot of nice wood back,they build entertainment centers,bed frames,cabinets, but they have also use my trailor a few times so its a bit of payback,should be good