Shingle and drip edge questions

[Dragonrider99]

Greetings all. I have just finished building a 10x12 Gambrel roof shed. I designed it on Autocad and built all the trusses myself on 2x6 joists so that I can use the large area upstairs for storage. I have read conflicting reccomendations for how the drip edge and ice shield/tar paper should be applied. Along the facia, should the drip edge be placed directly on the sheathing or over the ice shield? Should tar paper be placed over the ice shield? Same question for the rake edge. Should the drip edge be on the sheathing or over the paper? Second question: With the trim installed, the length of my roof is approximately 12' 3". I am using Architectural shingles. I realize each shingle is 3' long. How should I start and then continue each course so that I do not end up with a tiny piece at the end? Lastly, my roof does not have any overhang on the upper section of the roof (where the pitch of the roof changes from 22.5 to 67.5 degrees). What is the best way to shingle up to and over that section? Should I shingle up to it and then install a drip edge and continue from there?? Please help. Thanks in advance.

[Rich]

In my opinion the drip edge should be installed all the way around right on the sheathing. Then ice shield and tar paper over that.
Overhang the singles 1/4-1/2" over the drip edge. With architectural shingles you shouldn't have too much of a problem with small pieces at the end. Start with a full next row do a half or 1/3 sheet depending on what looks best for a cut.
For the roof break shingle up to it and lay the tar paper over top of it - install a low slope flashing and continue on.
Grumpy can probably give more specific recommendations on this.

[doyle]

It's always been a practice of mine to install the the drip edge under the tar paper along the fascia, then along the rake edge the drip edge goes on top of the tar paper. That way, any water that might seep in from the rake edge would never be able to touch raw wood.

As for how to handle the ridge (roof pitch change), I'm a little unclear as to what you mean. Is the roof the saltbox style like this?: http://www.dontjerseyvermont.com/gallery/8x12saltbox2.htm

If so, I would simply shingle up to the ridge on both sides, overlapping the last row then apply a row of ridge caps over that.

[Dragonrider99]

No, the roof is a Gambrel type. From the fascia, it rises up 67.5 degrees from the horizontal, then changes to a 22.5 degree pitch to the ridge. I am concerned with shingling over the part that the pitch changes from near vertical to more horizontal.

[doyle]

ohhhh, I see now what you meant. Sorry. Somebody else asked that question in this forum: http://www.construction-resource.com/forum/ftopic389.html

[grumpydasmurf]

Grumpy is very tired right now and will answer your question detail later tonight ;)

[grumpydasmurf]

Ok now that I have had a chance to rest, here is what I think...

If being used with a self adhering (SA) membrane like ice shield, I'd put the flashing under the ice shield so the ice shield can stick ontop. If I were using an SA membrane like Grace Ice and Water shield which is not granulated and can be stuck to it's self, I would first put the ice shield, then the flashing, then another strip of ice shield over the flashing. This method would be the cadillac of flashings.

If it were just on felt, specifically organic roof felt, I would first put the felt then the flashing ontop. The reason being felt will not adhere to the flashing. If any rain is blown in it's going to go right under the felt if the felt is over the flashing. If the felt is under the flashing, the rain blows ontop of the felt and has to find a way through the felt before it can become a leak.

This method should work for gable edges or drip lines both. The goal is for water to never touch raw wood like Doyle said.