New footing & Stemwall. Grout the blocks into wet footin

[Iconoclast]

I read your article on stem walls and it was very helpful. Thanks. I was wondering if you could just set and grout blocks right into the wet foundation at the same time. This way I dont have to have a truck out twice. A friend of mine is helping me with this project (he has an asphault company) and he seems to think this plan will work, but I thought Id ask.

Also, im planning on not using any forms. Is this wise?

Also x2, Are the anchorbots (every 6 feet) going to be enough for teh vertical rebaring or should I throw a few more bars in between them?

Thx!

http://webpages.charter.net/iconoclast/Stemwall.gif[/img]

[Rich]

How much will you be placing? I would say if it takes longer than an hour you're going to have more than one truck anyway. If you have more than 10cy you will have more than one truck.
Your anchorbolts should be closer together than 6' or 10' shown by detail (4' o.c. max - less is better). Verticals should be closer than that.
Bank pouring your footing is just fine (no forms).
In all I've said I've assumed this is a home that you are repairing or replacing the foundation.

[mjpliv]

It should be mentioned that a single horizontal bar running through the center of the block is not very effective. For good lateral restraint use two 15m bars, one towards each inside face of the block.

[Iconoclast]

Thx for the responces. Ill be pouring about 5 cy plus some for bank pour error. Fortunatley, I have more questions.

- In regards to the pair of rebar in teh footing, do I have to hang them or can I put a single channel cinderblocks on end every 15 feet or so and and place the two bars on/in that? One rebar would go in the opening and the other on top. I could then pour around teh blocks.

http://webpages.charter.net/iconoclast/Rebar.gif

- Im worried about drying time since Im planning on grouting the blocks right into the wet footing. Im planning on having 3 guys there. One to pour, one to pull hose (pumping) and one to lay the block. Will that be enough?

- The big question! The footing is not in one continous line around the house. Its actually in two sections. Since the top of teh footing will be beneath the earth surface and teh height of teh surface can vary anyway, how can I make sure that the non-continuous sections of footing are level with each other?

edit>> One more. Whats the best way to figure out cy for grouting the blocks? Thx

[mjpliv]

Your footings should be continuous regardless of elevation changes. As you decend to each level then back up again, your footings should "drop" over the edge down/up to the next level. Use a water level or construction level (these can be rented) to verify the corrosponding levels are at the same hieght.

Correct me if I am wrong but it appears from your drawing that you intend to use block for your footing???? Is this an acceptable practice in your area? I can't endorse the practice if it is. You footing should be formed and poured in place. If you cannot have them designed for the bearing capacity of the soil then a basic rule of thumb is they should be as deep as the wall is wide and twice a wide. The standard in my area is 10" thick and 20" wide.

Maybe someone out there has some pictures of a stepped foundation they can upload. If not, I will be going out to inspect some this afternoon and I will take a few pictures for you then.

[mjpliv]

Here are some shots of a stepped footing -

http://www.buildersmatrix.com/info/160001-TH.JPGhttp://www.buildersmatrix.com/info/160001.JPG

http://www.buildersmatrix.com/info/160002-TH.JPGhttp://www.buildersmatrix.com/info/160002.JPG

http://www.buildersmatrix.com/info/160003-TH.JPGhttp://www.buildersmatrix.com/info/160003.JPG

Note the keyway gouged into the top of the footing to provide some lateral support for the foundation wall.

Also note that the sun does shine every now and then in Nova Scotia! :D

[Rich]

mj..
I think is what the OP was going to do was use the cmu block only every so often to hold up the rebar and pour the whole block into the footing.

[mjpliv]

You know, you may be right. the last diagram threw me off a bit I guess.

[Iconoclast]

Nova Scotia?! Wow, how...exotic.
mj..
I think is what the OP was going to do was use the cmu block only every so often to hold up the rebar and pour the whole block into the footing.

Yes, thats what I was going for. Sorry for the confusion. Will it work?

Regarding continuous footing. I do not have a realy "elevation change" with this footing, but I dont see a way of making it continuous. It has to be broken up into two sections because of obstructions (chimney and some stairs. It is vital that the two sections come out the same level. I though about using some kind of water level but could see how it woudl work since im bank pouring. This is really crutial and its happening wedensday. (Im stressing).

Again. I want to thank you for all the help. Btw, do you guys know teh answer to these?

- Im worried about drying time since Im planning on grouting the blocks right into the wet footing. Im planning on having 3 guys there. One to pour, one to pull hose (pumping) and one to lay the block. Will that be enough?

Whats the best way to figure out cy for grouting the blocks?

[mjpliv]

Can you clairify a couple of things -

What do you mean by "bank pouring"?

What do you mean by "grouting the blocks"?

[Iconoclast]

Bank pouring: The excavated earth form the boundaries of the concrete footing, No forms are place.

Grouting the block: Perhaps Im saying this wrong. By grouting, Im refering to the process of filling the hollow cells of each dual channel cinderblock with cement.

Sorry about the confusion.

[mjpliv]

Drive short lengths of rebar into the bottom of the trench say every 5 or 6 feet. Set the tops level with the top of the intended footings. Pour and float the concrete to the top of the bar. Check your progress between bars with a straight edge.

[mjpliv]

You are going to have to get the advise of a professional mason to get your cubic yard requirements . When we do it, the masons fill it with mortar as they go.

(or Rich - he knows it all :D )

[Rich]

(or Rich - he knows it all )

haha.. yeah right.
You can figure 0.01053 cubic yards per block for a 8x8x16 CMU or 1.185cy for 100sf. Would probably want to add a little waste to that also.

[mjpliv]

You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever know :shock:

[Rich]

I doubt that...
I do my best.. growing up, living, and working in MT gives you a pretty wide variety of experiences. If you can't do it all there you pretty much starve to death :)