Wall framing and trusses

[Ringwood]

Hi,

I am building a one room hunting camp (28' x 14'). I am using 14' wide scissor trusses.

The wall framing is 2x6, 24" on center. I am using a single 2x6 top plate with each truss over a 2x6 stud. What would be the best hanger to use for the trusses?

Does this approch of framing sound good. It allows me to use 6" insulation. With the 2x6's I don't think I need to go 16" on center, and with a stud directly under each truss, I don't think I need a double top plate.

????? coments

Thanks

[Rich]

That's an excellent way to frame when economy is needed. Your wall is more thermally protected because there is more insulation versus more wood. Anyway the trusses should bear right on the top of the wall then you will have truss blocking between each truss.. typically with a gap at the top to allow for air movement. I would use simpson a35 hurricane clips for the hard attachment from the truss to the top plate/stud.

[Ringwood]

Thanks Rich,

I went onto the Simpson site and searched for the a35. That item came up as a framing angle. I noticed there were different ways to bend the a35 to use it in a lot of different ways. It looks like a versatile connector!

I did a little looking around and found the item H1. It was on there products page in the catagory 'Anchors & Angles'.
It was listed in the section 'Seismic & Hurricane Ties'.
I selected the 'H' on that page and it showed the H1.

The bottom nail on the H1 showes it going into the bottom piece of a double top plate, but in my case there would be a stud right there to nail into. Would the H1 work in my case?

I tried attaching a couple pictures to this post so you can check out what I'm talking about.

Thanks for the Info about Simpson.

Sid

[Rich]

I apologize for that.. the h1 is what you would want to use. And the bottom nail into the stud is fine.

[mjpliv]

I agree with Rich, H1 is the proper one. It is a proper huricane tie while the others are just truss clips.

Regarding the plate question- the second top plate not only supports trusses that fall between centers (not an issue in your case) but it also creates a continuous bond for the top of the wall by staggering the butt joints as well as locking the corners together by lapping the two layers.

The roof truss manufacturer should be able to ship the H1 clips with the roof trusses.

[Ringwood]

Thanks mjpliv,

I am re-thinkink using only only one top plate. Your piont about "creating a continuous bond for the top of the wall by staggering the butt joints as well as locking the corners together by lapping the two layers" makes sense. A small price to pay for additional support.
The H1 tie is readily available at local home centers.

Thanks
Sid

[Rich]

The only thing I don't like about a single top plate is that when you splice directly over a stud it becomes somewhat flimsy. Is what I typically do is break the top plate between 2 studs and then block between the studs to get a better non-flimsy connection.
Although I still like the double top plate because it makes it much easier to line the wall.

[NAIL BENDER]

Is what I typically do is break the top plate between 2 studs and then block between the studs to get a better non-flimsy connection.


In some areas this is not allowed. I try to splice in the center of a stud and run the double top plate at least 4' from the splice as per code in my area. The double top plate splice also has to line up on the center of a stud. I had an inspector call me for a splice on the double top that was lined up with the edge of a stud instead of the center and he made me put a stud under it. :roll:

[Rich]

That's what engineers are for.. to overrule inspectors :)
With the newer systems of framing, as the OP is suggesting (search this forum for optimum value engineering), inspectors need to go back to school to understand them. I've had engineers have to overrule inspectors before.. it's not recommended to do too often but when you're in dire straits you almost have to.