View Full Version : Shingling a valley......Right way
charlesj52
06-22-2004, 04:50 PM
Hello…..I’m new here & I have a question for you. My wife & I are building our own house & we’re at the point of shingling the roof. The main portion of the roof is a 12/12 pitch. We have 2 dormers & their pitches are different. One is a 6/12 on the dust pan dormer & the other is a 14/12 on the front dog house dormer. The question I have is what’s the best way to do the valley where they meet. I’m not going to have an open valley, I want to shingle them. Being to different pitches it’s kind of awkward, so I was going to run the shingles into the valley & up on one side & cut the other side in the valley. My question is, does it make a difference what side I run the shingles & what side I cut? I’m using Grace Ice & Water Barrier in the valley & 30 lb felt paper on the roof……Every time I read about this there is always a different way to do it. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated…..Thanks
The steeper slope should be over the lower slope.. i.e. the steeper slope should be cut in the valley. Low slope should run up underneath.
doyle
06-22-2004, 05:15 PM
Since pictures can say a lot more than words, here's an excellent tutorial site for different shingling methods: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00135.asp
Be sure and click thru all 4 pages.
I always use the "slow" method of weaving the valleys. It's the best way to do it in my opinion. It may take more time, but since it's not something a homeowner would have to do very often, why not?
grumpydasmurf
06-23-2004, 05:57 AM
Yes What rich said is true if you are using a "closed cut" valley. The other option is a woven valley. Woven valleys are a little bit harder to do and IMO look a little bit nicer than a closed cut valley, but there is nothing wrong with a closed cut valley.
Doyle the only reason we don't do woven valleys as a standard is we'd have to charge a bit more and we are already a bit higher than most of our competitors, all of which use closed cut :) If it was my own house I would use either woven, or open with copper "W" metal.
I really like the copper valleys - we'll probably end up with those on the project I'm working on now. There won't be any shingles though - concrete tile and copper.
doyle
06-23-2004, 11:12 AM
Oh, I understand completely Grumpy. I was simply thinking that with Charles being a DIY'er that maybe he would be ok doing a woven valley since all he would be out would be the extra time it takes.
I hope I read his post right.....that he was going to do it himself.
charlesj52
06-23-2004, 03:05 PM
Want to thank you for your input…..The web site was informative….I am doing the work myself so if it takes a little longer to weave the valley it’s no big deal….We decided to build it ourselves knowing it was going to be a lot of work. When you do it yourself when there are changes, which there have been its no big deal. When you weave a valley with two of the same pitches it’s pretty easy, but when there is a big difference as 6/12 meeting a 12/12 do you skip a few rows in the weave to make it stay in the valley? Most of what I’m doing is learn as I go. I have done some building but no to the scale as I’m doing & I prefer finish work to framing…..I like making doors both interior & exterior…..I want to thank you again for your help…..
Tom R
06-23-2004, 03:34 PM
Yes, it's a bit more complicated on 2 different pitches, but you can handle it. Lay down a few rows in advance before you nail them and make sure of the 'visual'. It should be two rows on the 6/12, one on the 12/12, two on the 6, one on the 12, etc. Keep nails at least 6" away from the center of the valley. Good Luck!
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