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charlesj52
06-22-2004, 04:50 PM
Hello…..I’m new here & I have a question for you. My wife & I are building our own house & we’re at the point of shingling the roof. The main portion of the roof is a 12/12 pitch. We have 2 dormers & their pitches are different. One is a 6/12 on the dust pan dormer & the other is a 14/12 on the front dog house dormer. The question I have is what’s the best way to do the valley where they meet. I’m not going to have an open valley, I want to shingle them. Being to different pitches it’s kind of awkward, so I was going to run the shingles into the valley & up on one side & cut the other side in the valley. My question is, does it make a difference what side I run the shingles & what side I cut? I’m using Grace Ice & Water Barrier in the valley & 30 lb felt paper on the roof……Every time I read about this there is always a different way to do it. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated…..Thanks

Rich
06-22-2004, 05:11 PM
The steeper slope should be over the lower slope.. i.e. the steeper slope should be cut in the valley. Low slope should run up underneath.

doyle
06-22-2004, 05:15 PM
Since pictures can say a lot more than words, here's an excellent tutorial site for different shingling methods: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00135.asp
Be sure and click thru all 4 pages.

I always use the "slow" method of weaving the valleys. It's the best way to do it in my opinion. It may take more time, but since it's not something a homeowner would have to do very often, why not?

grumpydasmurf
06-23-2004, 05:57 AM
Yes What rich said is true if you are using a "closed cut" valley. The other option is a woven valley. Woven valleys are a little bit harder to do and IMO look a little bit nicer than a closed cut valley, but there is nothing wrong with a closed cut valley.

Doyle the only reason we don't do woven valleys as a standard is we'd have to charge a bit more and we are already a bit higher than most of our competitors, all of which use closed cut :) If it was my own house I would use either woven, or open with copper "W" metal.

Rich
06-23-2004, 10:46 AM
I really like the copper valleys - we'll probably end up with those on the project I'm working on now. There won't be any shingles though - concrete tile and copper.

doyle
06-23-2004, 11:12 AM
Oh, I understand completely Grumpy. I was simply thinking that with Charles being a DIY'er that maybe he would be ok doing a woven valley since all he would be out would be the extra time it takes.

I hope I read his post right.....that he was going to do it himself.

charlesj52
06-23-2004, 03:05 PM
Want to thank you for your input…..The web site was informative….I am doing the work myself so if it takes a little longer to weave the valley it’s no big deal….We decided to build it ourselves knowing it was going to be a lot of work. When you do it yourself when there are changes, which there have been its no big deal. When you weave a valley with two of the same pitches it’s pretty easy, but when there is a big difference as 6/12 meeting a 12/12 do you skip a few rows in the weave to make it stay in the valley? Most of what I’m doing is learn as I go. I have done some building but no to the scale as I’m doing & I prefer finish work to framing…..I like making doors both interior & exterior…..I want to thank you again for your help…..

Tom R
06-23-2004, 03:34 PM
Yes, it's a bit more complicated on 2 different pitches, but you can handle it. Lay down a few rows in advance before you nail them and make sure of the 'visual'. It should be two rows on the 6/12, one on the 12/12, two on the 6, one on the 12, etc. Keep nails at least 6" away from the center of the valley. Good Luck!