Exposed Beam Ceiling

[Bruhlad]

Where can I find info on constructing a ceiling with exposed beams/ceiling joists? I am thinking of using 2x8's @ 24" O.C. for the ceiling joists (the clear span is only 10') and trimming them with 1x lumber after putting the drywall in place above the joists. Question is how to attach the drywall? Are 2x4s placed on top and perpendicular to the ceiling joists? Thanks in advance for any experienced pointers here.

[Tom R]

What is going to be above the ceiling joists? A second floor? An attic? A roof? Need more info.

[Rich]

If you're going to have the "beams" running perpendicular to the joists I would drywall the ceiling like any other ceiling, tape and finish it too. Come back with a 2x4 or whatever size you like screwed right through the drywall into the bottom of the joists then wrap them in whatever you like. It'll save a lot of time and headache.. and you can make them whatever size you like.

[Bruhlad]

What is going to be above the ceiling joists? A second floor? An attic? A roof? Need more info.

This is a single story addition (actually, an existing kitchen expansion), so just rafters supporting an asphalt shingle roof.

[Bruhlad]

If you're going to have the "beams" running perpendicular to the joists ....

The room will be 10'x18' with the ceiling joists running across the 10' span. If I ran exposed "beams" perpendicular to that they would be 18' long and look a bit odd, perhaps? I don't know. Your suggestion certainly would be the easiest route to go. Is this the common practice for constructing exposed beams? If so, then are most exposed "beams" simply ornamental details and not really beams at all (in the sense of supporting a load)?

[Rich]

Typically they are just ornamental unless it's a timber frame home or log home. The thing I don't care for when exposing floor joists is that they aren't much to look at and it's 10 times the work to drywall between each joist.

[Tom R]

Bruhlad,

Rich is right, it's much easier to drywall the ceiling first, then connect 2 X's on the 'flat', then 'wrap' to your liking. Here's one look (my dining room ceiling). If your interested in some similar method I'll take a better picture (ceiling only), and explain the 'methodology'. This ceiling has stained Birch plywood on the bottom of the 2 X 5's, and stained Oak with routered edges flanking the sides. Then there's stained Oak 'bed' molding (crown) inside each of the 'coffers'.

[rebobinar]

Chiming in to say that your dining room looks fantastic! I'm saving the pic for my file. :) I've been looking for an "ornamental" ceiling treatment for the dining room in the house I'm building and really like that. Would you rate that as very difficult, moderate, or fairly easy to pull off?

Thanks, Robin

[Tom R]

Robin,

Thanks for the nice compliment. I'd rate it as fairly easy, but I've got 25 years of experience. I'm also sure that anyone can do it who's got the patience and is willing to tackle it with a systematic approach.

Simply put, first you attach the 2 X's, then 'pack' it down further to your liking (I added 3/4" plywood as a spacer), then attach your pre-stained (Birch) plywood (1/2" wider than your 2 X's, 1/4" overlap on each side), then attach your 3 1/4" wide pre-finished faceboards with routered edges and 3/4" wide dado grooves to 'accept' your finish plywood (3 1/4" width is determined by - - 1 1/2" + 3/4" spacer + 3/4" finished plywood + 3/8" bottom 'reveal' - 1/8" gap at the top for variation), then install the crown inside each 'coffer'.

P.S. The dado grooves should be 5/16" or even 3/8" deep, even though your plywood is only extended 1/4". This will allow for both variation and 'future' movement. Also, be sure to 'rip' even your rough stock to width, to make sure it's all in 'exact' dimensions with each other.

Hope this helps, and will be looking forward to seeing pictures, once you've added your own little 'flavors' to the project. And remember, on this site, more help is always just a 'clic' away.