Layout of rough-in-plumbing stubs

[Sugyban]

Hello all,

I just joined the forum and thank you all in advance for your input to my novice question :)

We moved into a new construction home a year and half ago. The house has a walk-out basement and we decided to take the builder option of getting rough-in-plumbing. This is our 1st house, so we were new to the whole construction/layout of plumbing,etc (we are learning really fast though :x )

We are considering finishing the basement this summer and are looking to put in a full bath. However when drawing the design for the basement we realized that the builder has placed the Toilet stub and the sink stub too close together and also the sink stub is very close to the conrete basement wall! I realize that we could cut through the concrete and redo the placement of the stubs, but i would rather avoid that. The question I have is:

Can we use some sort to flexible pipe for the sink drain so that we can use the existing stubs the way they are currently located? Something that we can pull in through the drywall and use with a wall/pedestal sink?

Thanks for all your help!

[mjpliv]

The pipe for the basin should have been located to come up through a future wall plate. This pipe would extend all the way through the wall to be connected to another vent pipe somewhere in the ceiling because it probably vents the future toilet connection as well. A horizontal pipe ties into this pipe about a foot off the floor with a sanitary "Y" fitting and spans the distance from where it comes through the floor to your basin drain location. If this span exceeds 5 feet you will require a vent loop to run past the basin, up through the wall and back to tie into the first vent pipe. The pipe for the toilet should be 12" (to center of pipe) from any future finished wall.

When you install the sink the trap will allow you to redirect the waste water towards the drain pipe so you don't have to be exact where you bring the pipe out through the wall. Always maintain 1/4" on 12" slope for your horizontal drains. I would avoid any flexible waste pipes unless they have a smooth bore inside.

[mjpliv]

This diagram might help explain the typical household Drain, Waste and Vent (DWV) system

http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14265/css/14265_101.htm

[Sugyban]

Hi,

i'm not sure I understand completely what you are trying to say. Can you say that in Laymans terms :oops: :?:

I've attached the architects drawing of the plumbing stubs as they are in the basement currently. The black dots are the stubs. the red line shows where the framing would have to be as the sewage pipe runs at mid-level of the basement wall.

I'd really appreciate it if you could tell me if its possible to use the stubs as they are.

Thanks for you help!

SB

[mjpliv]

I see three dots. What is the third one for? A shower? A floor drain?

Perhaps you could boil my last post down to say that the toilet must go on the large pipe and as long as the smaller stub pipe comes up through or behind the wall framing then it doesn't matter how close it is to the toilet. I am guessing from your initial post that you had expected to use an "S" trap under the basin to drain directly into the floor stub. In actual fact, you will be using a "P" trap to drain towards the wall.

[Sugyban]

Hi,

Thanks for reply! And yes, the third dot is for the shower.

Your post is now starting to make a lot more sense and we can plan the placement of the sink accordingly with a P trap drain.

One last question regarding this, is there a particular brand of drain pipe that is better that the rest of them or should I just leave it up to the contractor to get the correct type of drain pipe?

Thanks for you help!

SB

[mjpliv]

Its only my opinion but you can't beat plastic. I would imagine any of the ABS plactic fittings will do the trick for the waste/vent pipes. We use nothing but plastic water pipes in our new homes and never have any trouble as long as the connections are properly seated. The only thing you should be picky about is your choice of fixtures. Resist the urge to buy a cheap "imported" toilet. The glazing on these can be porous at best, and in some unseen spots can be non-existant. They have a tendancy to absorb odours over time. Stick to Kohler, American Standard or Crane (or equivilant quality).

Make sure you use water resistant drywall behind the toilet, sink and shower areas remember to rough in for an exhaust fan.

[mjpliv]

Another note - if you are above the frost belt and the plumbing is on a cold wall make sure the wall/pipes are insulated.

[Rich]

Something to think about too - it's a bit more costly. But the quietest drain and waste piping is cast iron. Just depends on if you want to hear the upstairs toilet flush downstairs. If you go with plastic you can insulate walls to minimize the noise.

[Sugyban]

Thanks for you insights! i'm definitely going to take your advice!

SB