Pavers - Base and Edging

[BayouDIY]

I'm laying a paver patio in LA (fairly soft soil). I've added a base of aggregate (crushed stone) that's been sitting for a couple weeks so it's hardened up. It rained a couple days ago and the aggregate feels a little soft. Will that be an issue once I put the sand then pavers on top of that base? Will the pavers sink as a result?

Also, I'm using Barrier plastic paver edging. I did a walkway with the edging with the nails under the pavers but the next project may be easier with the nails on the outside. Has anyone found a significant advantage/disadvantage between the inside/outside?

Thanks.

[Don_P]

I don't believe I've ever seen a paver job that didn't sink and undulate over time unless it was placed over a slab.

[MajesticPaving24]

If done properly, using polymeric sand, you will not see a lot of sinkage over time. However, you have to really get through the top soil and make sure you are actually laying the pavers on something solid. A good paver company will take care of this for you.

[concretemasonry]

The key to a good paver job is having a good base and good edge restraint that constrains the pavers so the fine sand can be vibrated into the tight paver joints that are resting on a 1" concrete sand setting bed. As far as the edging type there are a number of options, ranging from plastic for sidewalks and patios to steel, aluminum or concrete for major projects. - You just need to make sure you have an edge restraint that provides enough lateral strength and anchorage for proper restraint.

For a patio, the use of polymeric sand may be OK, but I would not bother on any job with the price you pay to justify the DIY advertising and hyp. I have never seen it used on a "real" paving installation like a street, highway shoulder/median or airport taxiway.

Don - The pavers do not sink since was the base that was not prepared properly by the contractor. If you looked at commercial and industrial applications you will find huge paving areas with very heavy loads and no waviness. I saw a 30 acre ship unloading area at a harbor (high water table) in India with no differential settlement even with running huge 4 wheeled straddle loaders stacking shipping containers 4 to 6 high. No other material would perform as well be practical or cost effective. There is a similar 40 acre facility in Indonesia plus other similar ones around the world.

Dick

[Mike Pearson]

There are a lot of subtle details involved in installing Belgard-type pavers. Have a professional do it. The base, the edging, even placing the pavers in such a way so that they settle correctly. These are all important factors, and I would always suggest that an experienced pro perform the job. It's a relatively inexpensive installation.

[Katie]

My husband and I laid about 500 sq ft free form patio using pavers. We 1st poured a 3 inch concrete edging, using plastic landscape bender board for forms. The forms were the hardest part because of all the curves, but the job turned out just perfect! We used square pieces of wood, the desired thickness of the edging between the bender boards, then hammered in rebar on the outside of the boards and wired them to the rebar to maintain the desired height. We mixed concrete in a wheelbarrow, adding concrete dye to match the pavers. For base we used sand, tamped it down and broke down and bought a tile saw for all our curve and straight cutting of pavers. The job amazes us how well it turned out and our friends can't believe we did it ourselves. One problem after a few years - roots of the already existing honey locust tree in the center of the patio tend to push up pavers. We pull out a few pavers, get out the sawsall, cut the roots, and put the pavers back in - all good. Patio's been laid about 4 years now, honey locust tree twice the size since.
Almost forgot: I scored the edging about every 18" and finished the concrete with slightly rounded top edges. Hubby & I argued about reinforcement (wire or rebar). I let him win this one - no reinforcement. Edge has cracked only in one place where hillside drops off abruptly and should have had a retaining wall. Not noticable to anyone but me, the perfectionist.
Almost forgot#2: Pull off the forms right after cement hard enough to stand on its own so you can knock off the hardened cream left between form and curved top.

[GoMarchingIn]

One problem after a few years - roots of the already existing honey locust tree in the center of the patio tend to push up pavers.

This is a serious pain in our neighborhood thanks to Cypress trees.