View Full Version : How to correct slightly leaning/unsquare building?
davidshackelford
06-25-2004, 04:49 PM
For the shed I am building, the "yellow" wall (in my attached pic) is leaning 2" in the direction shown. Because the walls are all connected together (duh?), the left side of the "door" wall is leaning also. The right side of the door is fine though. What method should I use to straighten it? Should I use "come-alongs" with the method described at (basically the reverse parallelogram method): http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/framecarp/liftmove/straighten/garage1/winch.htm?
I have a sick feeling in my stomach though that it is too late...is it?
Thanks for all the help this forum has given me!!!!
-David
doyle
06-25-2004, 05:54 PM
Oh, man. I have a sick feeling, too. Gosh....what to do at this point of construction? That's gonna be a tough one.
Level and plumb is something you have to constantly keep check on during construction, from the first block on the ground to the last rafter. Put one wall up, get it plumb, brace it well, then continue the same way with the other walls. Do not remove any braces until you absolutely have to.
When you put the insulation board up did you not notice it didn't fit right? At the very least the insulation board will have to come off.....then maybe you can push or pull the building into a vertical position.
One question, though: why didn't you angle the shed roof towards the rear of the building instead of directing all that water right to the front door and window?
davidshackelford
06-25-2004, 06:13 PM
Thanks for the reply!
It may be difficult to see from the picture Doyle, but the ground slopes off to the door side, probabley at around 3-4" every four feet. I thought it would be better to have the water run down the hill instead of running off the roof, and then through the foundation.
It wouldn't be a big problem to take off some of the insulation board, I think that was only about $5 a sheet. Would you recomend using a "come-along" between the two corners of that wall to try to pull it square? How would you help to make it vertical again?
Yeah, the install of the insulation board is what cued me in to the problem. Only for that wall the insulation board didn't fit square though. The rest of the walls are fine.
Thanks again!
-David
I would probably do what doyle is saying. An older structure and you could probably use the method described at hammerzone. Take off the one side of insulation board and start over - at least it's only for that one wall.
davidshackelford
06-25-2004, 06:32 PM
I just had another idea...what if (after properly bracing the shed), I cut off the top plate of that wall with a reciprocating saw. I could then pull the walls (fairly easily) square, and put a new top plate on. Is this unsafe? What are your opinions on that?
For any of y'all who have seen the movie "Big Fish", I wish I could straighten this the same way they straightened that house. (The Giant just pushed it straight)
Thanks again!
-David
haha.. I've straightened walls with a backhoe before.. I guess that would be kind of like a giant pushing it straight :)
Once you take the sheathing off you should be able to straighten it with a rope all by itself or even a good push on the front side. Picture this - plant a 2x something into the ground a distance away that allows it to just touch the top of the wall. Pull down on it and it will shorten and come down the wall - then let go and it will push your wall back. Do this until you get it back to plumb and then nail your sheathing on. Once the first piece is on you can remove the 2x6 and check for plumb again. Then sheet the remaining.
Tom R
06-25-2004, 07:38 PM
At this point, I'd say your cheapest, quickest fix - - is to take the sheathing off the front wall, install 'sister' studs (plumb) along-side and towards the outside of your front wall studs (from the left corner stud to the second to last one on the right), re-sheathe, and 'deny' the back corner looks crooked.
doyle
06-25-2004, 08:10 PM
NO! Don't cut off your top plate.
I agree with Rich that once you remove the insulation board on the 8ft side wall that you will be able to use a jimmy-stick (long, angled board) to pry it back into a plumb position. The longer the board and the higher you can place it on the wall that is leaning out, the easier it will be. Drive a stake into the ground if you need to in order to give the jimmy-board something to push against, then pull down on the jimmy-board as it is resting against the wall. Hopefully you have a helper standing by who can nail a temporary brace of some sort. You can then replace your insulation board. No harm done, no extra expense.
We're all here to help.....at least you've learned just a bit to help you out on your 'next' project.
Tom R
06-26-2004, 07:35 AM
I would think being the roof sheathing is already installed, you wouldn't be able to 'rack' it anywhere near 2", but hey, maybe I'm crazy. Let us know what you do and how you make out.
Tom - it will probably be a little more difficult.. but for a structure that small I think it'll go. Let us know if it works david.. whatever you end up doing :)
davidshackelford
06-26-2004, 12:25 PM
I think I will use your recomendation to take off the insulative sheathing on the "bad" wall, and try to "push" the wall back into square and plumb. If I had trouble with using a board to push the wall back, I might be able to screw the end of the board into a jack, and slowly jack the wall until it is square.
As Doyle said, I am learning loads on good building practices, and techniques. I don't know if I said this before, but I'm only 14 years old!
I will keep you guys updated as I progress.
Thanks for all the help!
-David
davidshackelford
06-26-2004, 04:32 PM
Today, I attempted to square the building. I removed the fiberboard sheathing, and then used a long board to try to push the building square. I was able to move the wall only about 1/2" more square. I tried to use a jack, yet I was unable to hold the jack still on the ground. Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
-David
Tom R
06-26-2004, 06:07 PM
David,
I can't tell from the picture if your shingles are on the roof yet. If they're not, pull the nails back out of your roof sheathing, then the wall will 'rack' easily. P.S. Is that a mis-print? You're 14 years old? Want to come live and work in New Jersey? I'd hire you in a 'minute'.
Damn.. I didn't realize that either. If you ever want to move to MT I know a few excellent people you could learn tons from.. old school methods.
Tom R
06-26-2004, 06:44 PM
And David,
Please do remember that racking that wall, especially with the roof still attached, will take a tremendous amount of force. No matter what method you use, with this amount of pressure, something can very easily 'snap'. Don't be in or near it's 'path'. Think and re-think every move. Always ask yourself, "Now what can go wrong here"?
davidshackelford
06-26-2004, 06:57 PM
Nope, no misprint :)
I'm using 5v crimped metal roofing.
I'm thinking I may have to put a "come-along" (like this: http://www.toolprice.com/product/6824F) between two corners of the wall, and slowly tighten it until the building is square. I could do several turns, wait for several hours for the building to settle, then make several more. Again, it is only a matter of 1-1/2 inches, so I don't think it will be too hard. Do you think that it is worth going to that trouble for a small workshop/shed? Will I experience many difficulties down the road if I don't?
Thanks for the tips Tom!
Ps: I don't think I'm quite ready to move out :)...
-David
Tom R
06-26-2004, 07:15 PM
No, you won't experience any difficulties either way, except maybe with your own 'psyche'. I'm the same way, I hate to leave any job 'imperfect'. That is a good sign. But in the real world, life (and carpentry) are about 'compromise'. The come-along should do the trick, if it works easily, - go for it. but if it's creating too much stress, don't sweat the last 1/2". Make sure you 'strengthen' up your corners first. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out. And congratulations on your short journey to becoming a 'top-notch' builder.
doyle
06-26-2004, 07:31 PM
Wow, David. I also didn't you you were so young (at least to us "old" guys...lol), even though we have emailed each other several times. You have the writing capabilities of someone much older, carpentry skills, too!
I think you may have a future as a builder if you wish to pursue it as you get older. I was also 14 when I built my first shed. A wall I was trying to lift off the floor (by myself) didn't quite make it, and came tumbling down right on top of me knocking me out for a few minutes. I just got up and shook it off and nobody has known about that until this day...lol
Keep up the good work, aim for getting the shed 1" out of square, then finish it and be proud of your accomplishment. You also have a job with me if and when you are ready.
gjohnson71
07-11-2004, 02:55 PM
David,
I'm working on fixing a garage that is off about an inch. Not really a big deal, but it's messing up the path of the garage door. I was thinking of using a "come-along" since it is a such a small amount.
How did your project turn out?
Thanks.
-Greg
davidshackelford
07-12-2004, 09:19 AM
I had trouble finding a store that sold a come-along for a reasonable price, so I ended up using a "jimmy stick" (see the earlier posts) to correct the leaning problem. It wasn't easy, but it worked.
I imagine though that a come-along would make easy work of fixing your garage. You will want to make sure you anchor the two hooks on the ends of the come-along securely to the corners of the wall. (Try to spread out the stress). Also, you will probabley want to go fairly slow, stop for a little while to let the building settle, and then start back again.
You will want to put some bracing on the wall to make sure it doesn't start to lean again. I'm not sure how to do that though, if the unsquare wall is on the door side. I am using Simpson's "T" bracing to hold my walls square.
Hope this helps!
-David
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