:?: basement insulation & framing question...

[supadave]

Hi there, I am going to start finishing my "daylight" basement this fall, it has 3 walls with 3.5' concrete. I want to know if I use 1x2 furring and 2" rigid foam on the concrete does this leave enough room for any electrical wall outlets? :?:

Thanks in advance.

[Rich]

Look for log home receptacles - they are not as deep as a typical outlet box. If you can't find those I would suggest framing the 1x2 wall away from the concrete walls a little bit - and then tie back to the wall with clips. As a side note I would suggest using 2x2 instead of 1x2 for the fact of being easier to "frame" a wall with bottom and top plates. 1x2 may be a little flimsy.
And welcome to the forum.

[supadave]

Thanks for the prompt reply! BTW, what is your opinion on below grade insulation, do you prefer batting or rigid foam? (The only reason I am considering foam is that my friend tells me it is much easier to install.) Is there any reason besides cost that I would want to use batting? Thanks again.

[Rich]

I prefer rigid for that specific application. Yes it is a bit more expensive but there are additional considerations that need to addressed with batt insulation next to concrete that are more easily handled with rigid. Essentially that equates to air gap b/w concrete and insulation.

[garfield]

I have a different opinion about basement walls. I prefer the batts with a 2x4 wall for 3 reasons. The air space behind the wall allows breathing, the 2x4 allows for much easier installation of electrical and anything else you want to install, the wall can be made plumb if the cement wall is out of wack. There is no right or wrong way to do it just different. I just prefer to do it that way. My opinion only. Whichever way you decide to do it will be just fine. Have fun and enjoy it when you're finished :D

[supadave]

Well guys, I went ahead and ordered my supplies yesterday. I decided to go with the rigid foam. The stuff I bought is pre-notched where you put the strapping, so I don't even need to build a framed wall (as easy as possible since I am a big time newb to construction).

A couple of quesitons though:
-Since foam insulation is water proof, do I need to put vapour barrier still?
-What is the easiest way to run the electrical, I was thinking of leaving a small gap underneath and then notch it up to the recepticles.?
-How should I attach the recepticle boxes, to the 1x3 slats or to the concrete?
-Will my 12v B&D cordless drill be powerful enough to drill the holes for the tapcons or should I rent a hammer drill?

Thanks again.

[Rich]

I agree garfield - that's why I mentioned if supadave was going to use 2x3 or 1x3 to bring it off the wall to get the air gap. I would much rather use a 2x4 just for ease of framing. I think 1x3 and 2x3's are too easy to split. I've used rigid and batts before - I liked rigid a little more because I could place it right where I wanted it and slap a nail in the edge to keep the air gap. The batts (since I didn't use faced batts) never seemed to stay where I wanted it to. I didn't use faced because I used a vapor barrier at the wall... double vapor etc..etc. But like you say - everyone has a way to do everything :D
I have a different opinion about basement walls. I prefer the batts with a 2x4 wall for 3 reasons. The air space behind the wall allows breathing, the 2x4 allows for much easier installation of electrical and anything else you want to install, the wall can be made plumb if the cement wall is out of wack. There is no right or wrong way to do it just different. I just prefer to do it that way. My opinion only. Whichever way you decide to do it will be just fine. Have fun and enjoy it when you're finished :D

[Rich]

A couple of quesitons though:
-Since foam insulation is water proof, do I need to put vapour barrier still?
-What is the easiest way to run the electrical, I was thinking of leaving a small gap underneath and then notch it up to the recepticles.?
-How should I attach the recepticle boxes, to the 1x3 slats or to the concrete?
-Will my 12v B&D cordless drill be powerful enough to drill the holes for the tapcons or should I rent a hammer drill?


Yes some foam is also waterproof but what about the wood?
Not a bad idea on the gap underneath. I've always notched all the way across and put holes in studs or put 2 pieces of rigid in above and below the electrical.
Attach them to the studs (if you can call them studs :D )
Your cordless probably won't cut it but you can try it. Sometimes the concrete is just right and it works (be ready to replace it when it breaks :D ) I would rent the hammer drill - it will take half the time.