Door and Hallway Widths, Now and Later

[Babybldr]

Hi, I’m interested in accounting for wheelchair accessibility in our to-be-built home. This isn’t a current need, but something I would like to account for if possible since we plan this to our home for the rest of our lives. I’m wondering about door and hallway widths. I’ve read about the 36” door and wide halls – but boy, it sure takes up the space in a 2000 sq ft home!

An architect told me to just go with 32” interior doors as they would look better in the scale of the home and still allow access. He knows it isn’t ADA, but said it would work fine. He also said an upstairs hall of 3’6” was fine. I was thinking if I go with the 32” doors now but allow enough wall space to frame out a 36” door later if needed (even if I have to mess up the trim or have no trim), could that be a happy medium? In other words, try not to make a design that makes a 36” door impossible. What do you think? What is really needed from a daily activities point of view, vs. a code issue.

Thanks!

[Don_P]

The 32" will let a normal wheelchair through. Look at turnarounds or T turn areas in small places like baths, think about the door swing in that equation. Also in baths I like to run inset blocking around the walls centered at about 3' to allow for future grab bars. Glueing some to the backside of the tub/shower unit and keeping photos of all that is a good idea.

How you getting the wheelchair upstairs? I helped design a closet this winter with a removeable floor. The elevator can go in there later if needed.

[Babybldr]

Don P, Thanks for your input. I think I will go with the 32 inch doors. They fit better and cost less. I have tried to account for turnaround space. Downstairs it's not an isuse in the open plan. Upstairs I drew a 5' diameter circle in the bath to account for turnaround, although this space is not 'unused' open area. Instead it is partly used as a no-step shower area that I plan to have tiled with a drain in the floor. I'm not certain how these are actually constructed but I've seen pics of them in magazines. This no-step shower area is adjecent to the toilet. As I understand it you want to have an open space next to the toilet for easier on/off if a person is in a wheelchair. So, I think I'm getting there ...

I agree with you about the blocking - good comments.

Currently an area where I do see accessibility falling apart is in the modestly sized bedrooms. In there, a person in a wheelchair may need to get into bed from the bottom of the bed and I guess that isn't the best.

A 5'x6' elevator-reserved space is on the 2nd, 1st and basment levels. This part of the basement slab will be deeper and have a thicker slab to account for the elevator. The elevator takes up SPACE and the forced alignment floor-to-floor makes for some interesting work in trying to layout rooms and such. It's a challenge for sure.

[RTF]

Check out ADA requirements, you can google it, you will get all the info you need on handicap requirements. It might help in your design.

[homebild]

For what's its worth, I'm a builder but also a nationally certified Accesibility Inspector and Plan Reviewer.

A 32" door will not allow a wheechair through under normal circumstances.

That is because a"'clear opening width" is required for a wheelchair to pass through a door. A 32" door in the 90 degree open position does not have a "clear opening width" of 32". It has a door slab-to-jamb distance of just over 30". This means the "clear opening width" is only about 30 1/4"...toop small to allow a chair and occupant through. You need a bit more than that to accomodate the chair and the person and his arms when he wants to self-operate thru the opening.

Minimum size, therefore, for an accessible door that a wheelchair can get through is 36" under any circumstance.

There is a lot more to accessibility than just hall widths, door widths, and 5 foot turn-around radii in bathrooms.

Proper clearances need to be maintained in hallways in order to make turns into door openings. Hall widths must therefore be at least 48" wide to allow a chair to turn into a room with an inswinging door. There must also be at least 18" clearance on the inside latch side of inswinging doors.

Like DonP said, you either need to make turning areas at least 5ft in diameter or install "T" turning areas where you can do a "k" type turn, much as you do when taking a driving test.

Switches and receptacles hould be located between 15" and 48" above the floor. Sinks and counter spaces no higher than 34".

Knee and toe clearances have to be considered, types of flooring (no rug pile deeper than 1/2"), entry doors with no thresholds, and tons of other things.

If you are seriously considering an accessible unit, have your architect make it truly accessible....NOW.

Otherwise the things you scrimp on will never be able to be addressed at a latter date, or be too costly to change.

Here is a link to the most commonly used national Accessibility Standard. The 2003 ICC/ANSI 117.1

It address how to make buildings accessible:

http://publicecodes.citation.com/icc/ansi/2003/a117p1/index.htm

[homebild]

As far as "code" goes for accessibility, accessibility is not regulated by Codes unless the building is a commercial occupancy.

1 and 2 family dwellings and townhouses are not commercial occupancies.

4 unit residential apartments and condos are.

If you are planning a single family dwelling, you have no "code" requirements that apply.

You can certainly make the unit accessible for your own pleasure, but there are no "code" mandates on how to do it.

But remember: Unless you make the dwelling fully accessible, however, it is not at all "accessible".

----------------------
PS: I am in the process of design for my own retirement home (in my mind at this point) with full thoughts of having the unit be entirely accessible.

My rationale is that even if I do not ever need the features, a fully accessible dwelling will be in demand for resale... given that by 2020....the US Census Bureau estimates over 71,000,000 US citizens will be over 65, and there will be a demand for such units.

[Babybldr]

Good input all around - I'm learning a lot. When I mentioned "code" and ADA before, I wasn't clear. What I meant to ask is: Are there things listed in ADA guidelines that are required in public buildings for accessibility, but that could be scaled back, so to speak, for cost or space concerns in a private home. Door width might be one example. I honestly don't know and have no personal experience in this area. It was my architect who said I should skip the 36" doors that I was suggesting and go to 32" and it would be OK. Maybe he was wrong. Seems to be some disagreement on this forum too, whether a 32" door is sufficient (but not ideal) or whether a 36" is absolutely needed as the minimum.

I agree that there are many design aspects in the accessibility issue, not just doors and hallways. But doors/halls are the starting point for me to try to establish a basic floor plan. I appreciate the comment about 18" space next to door knobs on the inside of a room, if the door swings in (if I understand it correctly). That was new info for me.

Thanks for the comments as this has been really helpful.

[Don_P]

I don't disagree that a fully accessable home is a fine thing. You are allowed to use your judgement here. I was remembering a manual wheelchair dimension at 28" when I made the comment above. I googled to check, they are between 24.5"-26.5" wide. Would that door be adequate for most situations most of the time? Certainly. If you want to go full 36" it sure wouldn't hurt. I've wondered why we stopped producing the 2-10 door?

There are hinges that buy a little bit of room as they open.

[tooltroll]

I think I see the problem with 32" doors and 28" wheelchairs; Like Homebild says, the width between the jamb and the butt of the door will be less than 32". Now imagine hands on the wheelchair's rim handle thingies; My hands would need an extra 2-3", each side, plus another inch or two for confidence that I wouldn't bark my knuckles. Call it 4" a side, and the wheelchair is effectively 36" wide.

How about this: Frame the openings for 36" doors and add a space and an extra jack stud on the latch side for the 32" ones. Then, if you find you need to, you'll just have to cut off 4" of drywall each side, the 32" jack, and 4" of bottom plate. You'll also have to plan ahead to patch the flooring in the doorway, since you'll then have 4" of newly-exposed floor.

[homebild]

"What I meant to ask is: Are there things listed in ADA guidelines that are required in public buildings for accessibility, but that could be scaled back, so to speak, for cost or space concerns in a private home. Door width might be one example."

In a word: NO.

The same physical obstacles a disabled individual encounters in a public building are the same obstacles one encounters in a home.

Door widths and clearances around doors offer a perfect example.

The minimum width of an accessible door is 36" under all circumstances.

Why? Because it is a Tootroll stated: the intent of 'accessibility' is to make a building accessible to the disabled person...to access by himself and without help.

It is true that some wheelchairs can physically fit through less than a 36" door opening, but the key is that a disabled person operating his or her own chair needs at least a 32" net clear width in order push to himself or herself through that doorway unassisted. So the unobstructed opening has to take into account arms and elbows that are needed to operate the wheels.

Even more important than the width of the door is the clearances required in halls and around jambs for someone in a chair to operate the door and maneuvre himself through it.

If you install a smaller than 36" door, for example, an assistant may be able to push a wheelchair bound occupant through that opening in a straight run, but a disabled person certainly is not going to be able to make a right or left turn from a 36" hallway into such a door or even be able to open that door if the net clear width of the door is not maintained and clearances around the doorway don't exist.

Again 'accessibility' is designed so that the disabled person can get around by himself and without assistance.

Unless these minim clearances are maintained, the disabled person will be dependent upon others...something neither they nor their families nor caregivers ultimately want.

Here are some minimum requirements for door access for the disabled according to the ANSI standards:

(DIRECTION OF ARROW INDICATES DIRECTION OF TRAVEL OR APPROACH)

Net Clear Width for All Doors:

http://www.norcalcasp.com/images/doorclear.jpg

Side approach to bedroom or bathroom doors:

http://evstudio.info/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/6.jpg

http://evstudio.info/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/8.jpg

Front approach to inswinging doors like walk-in closets or entrance doors:

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/images/ada/pull_side.gif

Door clearances for doors in a series, much as you might find in a 'mudroom':

http://www.accessibility-services.com/images/image1.jpg

Minimum clearances for folding doors, pocket doors, halls and archways:

http://www.universaldesign.com/information/managers_clip_image002.gif

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/images/ada/wc_width.gif

http://www.odc.ok.gov/odc/housing/image016.gif

Clearance for most door approaches:

http://www.access-board.gov/research/doors/figure2.jpg

Clearances for recessed doors:

http://www.ada.gov/NPRM2008/ada_standards/finaladaag%20complete_files/ADA-AB26.gif

NOTE THAT CLEARANCES INCREASE IF A DOOR CLOSER IN ATTACHED TO THE DOOR.

________________________

And dont forget about door hardware:

Only lever-type latches with pushbutton locks, or latches that lock by pushing up or down on the lever.

And kickplates at least 10" up from the push side of doors so they are not damaged by the chair.

[homebild]

I think I see the problem with 32" doors and 28" wheelchairs; Like Homebild says, the width between the jamb and the butt of the door will be less than 32". Now imagine hands on the wheelchair's rim handle thingies; My hands would need an extra 2-3", each side, plus another inch or two for confidence that I wouldn't bark my knuckles. Call it 4" a side, and the wheelchair is effectively 36" wide.

Think about it this way:

While sitting in your desk chair reading this post, place your hands on your hips.

Now note the position of your elbows.

They are naturally going to be positioned at a 90 degree angle from your body, flared fully out.

This is the position the elbows must be in order to reach back to push the wheels of a wheelchair.

Now, if you have someone to assist you, have them measure your elbow to elbow distance while your hands are on your hips sitting in your chair. Or stand up and back up against a wall with your hands on your hips, and mark and measure the elbow to elbow distance on the wall.

I'm a big man and when I position my elbows to push on the imaginary wheels of my chair, my elbows extend out nearly a foot perpendicular to my chair.

In fact, by backing up against a wall and measuring my elbow-to-elbow distance, that distance is 35".

This is why someone in a wheelchair needs a minimum net clear door opening of 32" to push themselves through.

Because I'm bigger than most, I'd have a hard time getting through even a 36" door opening in the chair. (About a 34" net clear opening)

That is why codes require a 32" minimum net clear opening and why doors smaller than 36" should never be used for 'accessible' designs.

It is just physically impossible for the disabled to manuevre through a door or doorway opening that is narrower....especially if they already weakened in their arm strength by their disability.

Here is a link that shows where the elbows will be when pushing the wheels of a chair. It's not the best example, but it does illustrate the point:

http://media.ksfy.com/images/cheri+blauwet.JPG

[Babybldr]

Homebild thanks for taking the time to post all of the links with diagrams, great stuff! And Tooltroll, excellent idea on the framing.

So, I was thinking I would like to post my 'concept' floorplans here to see if you all have any comments. I read the FAQ on how to post images - but for the life of me I can not see the "manage attachements" button that will allow me to upload two jpg files I have. I prefer to just upload rather than put them make a link to another location on the internet. Am I missing something? Maybe the site no longer allows uploading? Or not for novice users?

Well, no biggie either way. Just thought I would give it a try.

[Don_P]

Try again. If I was successful you should see a tab below the quick reply window labelled "Go Advanced" click it and look for the "manage attachments" tab. An upload window should popup. PM or give a shout if you have trouble.

[Babybldr]

OK, if it works, there should be two jpg files of the 1st and 2nd floor plan. Thanks DonP for the help! Sorry if the images are small and fuzzy as I just did a screen capture off my laptop because that is the only way I know how to do it.

This is supposed to be a traditional-looking, simple-to-build, cost efficient house. I was trying to keep the house under 2000 sq ft, but for the life of me, when accounting for accessibility issues it always gets bigger. Bummer. It is not very fancy and the spaces are designed to suit a very informal lifestyle on a small farm. My husband and I will live and work there full-time, year round and plan to be there (hopefully) the rest of our days. My Mom may stay for months at a time. And my sister’s family will hopefully visit for wks at a time. That’s why the upstairs is divided into two areas that try to give privacy to the adults, except for the dang elevator area.

I made all doors to rooms 36”. And the upstairs hall is 4’ IF I can have a floor over the first two treads of the downstairs (see red circle on 2nd floor plan, software doesn’t allow me to put a floor in stairwell area). The first floor is 9' tall, 2nd floor is 8' tall. I was thinking of a plumbing chase at the stair area (see X on 1st floor plan) and a stone wall there for added thermal mass. This means the only access to the basement will be elevator and exterior bilco door. Is that just a terrible thing? Or even not allowed by code? We do NOT plan to use the basement for sleeping areas. It will likely be unfinished storage area.

To try to keep design fees lower, I’m trying to go in with the design mostly done (to suit our needs and the site). Comments, suggestions and criticisms welcome.
Thanks!

1811
1812

[homebild]

Not sure where to begin, but if it were me, I would be designing a ranch, not a 2 story home if accessibility was a prime goal. Main reason? You can get a much more open floor plan using a ranch home built with trusses. Fewer (if any) bearing walls. Your current plan wastes a LOT of space to the stairway and elevator. But I do understand that a 2 story can often be built for less than a ranch.

That said:

-Lose the french or double doors from the mud room. They are not wheelchair freindly.

-Lose the kitchen island. Someone in a chair will not be able to get around it and open drawers, and dishwashers and refrigerators as designed.

-The master suite is too small for someone in a chair. Especially the master bedroom. Not wheelchair friendly at all with it's small size. Too cluttered with small hard to access spaces.

-Pay more attention to clearances around doorways, both from entry and exit sides. Doesn't appear that the lavatories in your accessible bath is accessible.

-Biggest problem: The accessible bath water closet is not accessible.

[Tom_E]

I have a small walk in closet that wll be cedar lined , used only for storage of off season items. I had a small very old door that my wife wanted put in the house. I framed for a 36" door, then inside of that framed for the small door. It will not be really big job to revert to the larger opening at a later date. To insure this info will be available to someone after me , photos have been taken and will be afixed in a frame to the back side of the door. T.

[Babybldr]

Sorry for long delay in getting back here. We had family visitors for quite a while and that took priority on my time. I appreciate your comments Homebild as they give a good unbiased opinion on the functional side. While our family was visiting we spent a good amount of time discussing the new house plans, including your comments here.

I can see how single story (ranch) living makes a lot of sense. On the other hand, I have a personal attachment to the idea of a house as a two-story structure with bedrooms on the 2nd floor. In this rural farming area, a two-story farmhouse style house would fit in best. And it allows better views from more rooms.

So, I don’t have a good solution as of yet but will keep working on it and will keep your specific comments in mind. Thanks for the input!