tarring foundation and drain tile

[mneuner]

We'll the walls are poured for the house, I just have a few questions.
So here goes, how long before I can start knocking off the form holders (have no idea what the proper name for these is)? What's a good technique for tarring the foundation (something I plan on doing myself)?
You heavy tar over where the walls and footings come together, and also where all the form holders are knocked off, right? When I say heavy tar, I guess I mean the stuff is really, really thick compared to the stuff that is usaully applied to the wall itself.
About the drain tile, I helped a buddy do this and he laid his pipe along the top of the footing where it meets the wall and covered it with clean gravel, not sure if this is the right way, he hasn't had problems...yet.
I've done some searching and from pictures I've seen that's not exactly how you'd want to do this.
Basically just any tips or pointers on these things will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advace.
Matt

[kinger]

There are many products you can apply to the exterior walls for waterproofing. If you decide to go with a paint/roll/spray on type as you indicated, there are materials that are better than the tar. Look into the rubberized products which are better because they are more flexible and will expand across any developing cracks. I'll see if I have a few old cans left in my shop so I can get you some product names. It is also a good idea to place a barrier such as heavy felt paper or fiber board against the walls after you waterproof. This will protect your applied waterproof membrane against damage when you backfill with rock.

[mjpliv]

Make sure you use screened stone to cover the footing drains. Using a 1-1/2" or 2" clear stone would be best. The unscreened stone has too many fines that can clog the footing drains.

[kramer]

I am going to be at a similar stage soon and have a couple related questions.. 1) If the draintile already has a 'sock' around it, is it still necessary to have the washed stone and fabric over everything? I believe some have just filled with sand around draintile.
2) If draining to daylight, do you have to continue the stone all the way out to daylight? 3) Is it necessary to run the draintile at the base of the wall between the attached garage and house, or do you just go around the outer perimeter of combined house and garage? 4) how soon after concrete forms have been removed can you brush on the the tar waterproofing? 5) what is used to improve the 'waterproofing' at the junction of the footings and foundation wall? Thanks for any input and advice.

[Rich]

1. This is the same type we have used - we did put some 3/4- up to about the midline of the drain line.
2. Once you are around the perimeter you can tap in a hard pipe - non-perforated pipe - to daylight. If you do then stone is not necessary.
3. I would probably just go around the whole perimeter.
4. I would give the concrete at least a week - longer is better. Check the manufacturer recommendations - they should state.
5. Either a spray applied product or a backer and the tar, or a bentonite tube behind the tar.

[colonial carpentry]

I would'nt try anything short of this product called ''Big O'' if you want a dry basement go with this. It bridges cracks better than anything on the market.I see it on 80% of new construction or any builder who actually gives a crap about their warranty to home owners.(kramer #5)It also covers your concern about "footer to stem wall" the recommended application suggests that this product catch the outside edge of the footer then be attached to the wall which creates a small void by the wall therfore not allowing water to sit on the actual footer. Try this link. "System platon" http://www.aecinfo.com/1/company/05/15/66/company_1.html

[kramer]

Is it safe to assume that one can just put the drain tile (with the cloth sock) embedded in sand? This is not a high water area and we will have great drainage away from the house.

[Rich]

Sand will probably be ok as long as the manufacturer of the drain tile has approved sand for use with it.. some will not approve because the woven sock will let it come through and end up clogging it.

[southern eliteCrete]

was never a fan of the sock-encased drain piping,,, nor of the 5gal pails sold for 'waterproofing' the walls & applied by either brush or rollers,,, but zypex is an excellent product for that style application & is fairly inexpensive - have to compare what it costs to do it right the 1st time vs the likelihood of ANY water infiltration later on,,, remember, h/o warranties only cover wet basements for the FIRST year,,,, after that, you're on your own,,, & we did VERY well in n j just because of that,,, in fairness, if we had to earn a living from either toll brothers or hovnanian, we wouldn't have been in the trade,,, place the 4" slotted ads piping on a 3" bed of 3/4" stone at an elevation slightly above the bottom of the footer - cover w/6" same stone,,, 1 layer of filter fabric (sock material sliced lengthwise),,, more stone (4"),,, & backfill,,, if it were my home, i'd install a slotted protection board against the walls to protect the wall system - best - john