Truss Info/Prices?

[davidshackelford]

A neighbor asked for an estimate for the price of a 8' x 8' shed, and I am trying to bring some numbers together.

For my first shed, I just used a "shed" roof, with one wall 2 feet higher than the other. For this shed though, I am considering a "gable" roof. So I will need trusses. Who would you recommend as a truss manufacturor/supplier in North Carolina? I know that Home Depot supplies trusses, but I imagine I could get better quality at a better price without a "middle-man". Also, what price range can I expect for a truss that spans 8'?

Thanks for your time!
-David

[doyle]

8x8 is really tiny to even consider using trusses. Simply stick-build it using a ridge beam. I use 2x4's for the rafters with a 2x6 ridge beam, but you could always bump that up to 2x6 rafters and a 2x8 ridge beam if you want it to be heavy-duty.

I wouldn't even use collar ties on a building that size, but you could if you wanted to.

Sounds like you are getting ready to have your first paying customer, eh? lol

[davidshackelford]

Thanks for the reply!

Doyle, do you know of any good articles on how to frame a roof with a ridge beam? I know what you are talking about, just unsure of how it all "fits" together. What does the ridge beam rest on? A 2 x 4 frame on the "end" walls? Does Simpson make any special metal connectors for attaching a rafter to a ridge beam?

Thanks again!
-David

[Rich]

The end walls will need to be raked up to accept the ridge beam. At that size you could probably build the walls all at 8' (or whatever height) then apply the raked wall afterwards. You'll have a post (triple 2x6 or 2x4) running from the ridge beam down to the floor/foundation. I say triple because the center 2x4 will be shorter to accept the ridge beam and the sides will be longer to go to the top of the ridge beam.

[Tom R]

David,

The easiest way to figure out how to stick-frame your first gable roof is to 'draw' your gable wall (actual size) with chalk right out on the street or a patio slab. Then draw a rectangle 1 1/2" X 5 1/2" 'above' your wall drawing at the height your actual roof will be. Then lay an actual rafter right in place on your flat drawing. Mark your birdsmouth and your ridge (plumb) cut. Cut this rafter and use it for your pattern for all the others. It will work for your 'lefts' and your 'rights. Then when your 'real' walls are actually built, you can even temporarily 'prop' your ridge board at that same height, and start installing your pre-cut 'opposing' rafters.

[davidshackelford]

Thanks for the tips! Now I have to go find some of my sisters chalk...!

-David

[doyle]

Yeah, what Tom said...lol

I'm usually a little more precise about drawing it out full scale. I'll use an ink pen on plywood to draw my full scale pattern. The floor of the building that's being built is a good place after the first two walls have been stood up. You can pretend the sill plate is the top of the wall to make all the measurements easier to draw since you will be able to butt the tape measure right up against the sill plate.

Another trick is to lay a piece of plywood on the floor, with the end of the plywood being in the center of the building. mark along the edge of the plywood directly on the floor, and you will then have a line that represents the center of the ridge board.

Pull it back 4ft in each direction and you will have the marks for the end walls (for an 8ft wide building).

Another trick (if your building will have overhangs) is to start on the end of the wall that has already been stood up, and measure in 4ft from the end of the sill plate to draw your ridge board center line. The end of the wall will act as your top plate, and you can fit your birds mouth around the end of the wall.

Always, and I mean always, keep at least a 1x4 copy of your rafters as a pattern for future use. You never know when you might need it again, and all the work has already been done. All you will be out is a couple of bucks for the extra piece of wood. Even a strip of plywood will be good for a pattern, just don't bother with a cardboard pattern. Be sure and mark the pattern well on both sides, including the size of the building, the pitch, and even a note to yourself about how long the cheater board is that you will use to hold up the ridge board.

Cheater board? You've gotta be wondering. It's the board I use to sit on top of the gable end wall that will hold up the ridge beam to the proper height while you are installing the rafters. It can be left in place, but must be perfectly plumb and perfectly centered for the rafters to work out on both sides of the building. The measurement for the cheater board can be gotten from that full-size drawing you just did on the floor. Make your ridge board visible in your drawing. It should be 1 board size larger than the rafters. So, for a 2x8 ridge board, you will draw a line 7-1/4" down from the top of the roof, and also a line 3/4" over from the centerline mark you made.

Sure hope I haven't confused you, It's simple really. Just don't overthink it.

[doyle]

Oh, yeah....I forgot to mention some prices. My prices are really low for the local market , so use the prices on my website for a comparison against what you come up with. An 8x8 gable costs $1265. I don't think you can do it for much less. The materials alone will be about $785 plus tax.

Tell your neighbor you will do it for "materials plus labor". If you can get a labor rate equal to materials, you will make out really good.

[davidshackelford]

Thanks again for the tips!

I was also thinking of using a "contract" of materials plus labor, instead of a set price. With the lumber market as volatile as now, with a "static" estimate, I could either make a fortune, or lose it.

I've heard that the Simpson H1 Hurricane tie doesn't require notching of the rafters...is this true?

Also, would I save money by buying through a "contractors only outlet" (through a contractor I know)? In my area, we have a "Stock Building Supply", "Builders First Choice", "Lowes", "Home Depot", and "Builders Discount Center". Which one would you recommend for general building materials (ie studs and floor sheathing)? Doyle, where do you get your lumber?

Thanks for your help!

-David

[doyle]

90% Home Depot, the remainder from Lowes and other locally-owned supply houses.

I would still notch out the birds mouth. It just looks better in my opinion.

[Tom R]

David,

What Doyle said about the birdsmouth. Looks more professional, it's more stable, and it's good practice. You're the type that when you're done this roof, you'll be lookin' for something more complicated. As far as where to get your wood, just try any of your local 'yards' but make sure you hand pick every piece, after a while you'll get the feel of whose got the best wood. Good Luck, keep us posted.

P.S. Doyle and David - - When I say 'chalk', I mean 'chalkline' - - you guys have to work on your 'mindreading'.

[doyle]

Thanks for clarifying that, Tom. I had it pictured that you were drawing big old fat lines with a hunk of chalk. LOL

[davidshackelford]

Yeah, me too! Thanks for the clarification!

-David

[Tom R]

When I re-read it I realized I would have thought the same thing. After all, that's what it said. I'll try to 'sharpen up' on my editing process (unlock my mind).