Cathedral ceiling, no eaves

[noeaves]

HELP! We need to have our complex roof redone. We had leaks over several windows during winter breakup this year and have a recurring leak where one roof from an addition ends and drops vertically to the original roof, like a tilted pair of stairs. There are no eaves and a cathedral ceiling in most areas, therefore, hot roofs. We have cedar shake on the outside. When we had the ceiling torn off last summer, the exposed insulation was wet. Even without obvious leaks, many windows have failed, though we try to keep them painted/sealed. The house is in Anchorage, Alaska. We have icing problems, though we shovel the roof religiously in the winter. Do I need to talk to an engineer to see if we can add eaves to protect the windows? Can we add hot roof venting that are not unattractive without eaves? What should we do about the window leaks and failure? Though we have consulted some professionals, we still do not know where to begin.
Thanks.

[mjpliv]

Is there a possibility you could provide a few pictures of the area that leaks?

[noeaves]

Thanks for responding. (If you can see the photo, the area I am referring to is not the garage nor the entry/sunroom that juts forward toward the street) The source of the leak is either snow/ice on the roof that meets the wall with the clerestory windows OR it is condensation from insulation in this hotroof. We found water leaking on the inside (behind the drywall) of the next lower face --- that short wall covered in shingles. The next lower roof, part of the old house, is a cold roof.
Does this help?

[grumpydasmurf]

I see no ventilation of any kind. Your architect and roofer should be shot.

Without ventilation condensation will sponge in your insulation.

I'd recommend a ridge vent. This can be easily added, BUT if your rafter pockets are totally packed with insulation it will be worthless. I could go into great length and detail explaining a fix but it's not going to be cheap. No engineer required, just a good roofer.

[noeaves]

Thanks so much for the reply. Please do tell what the no-engineer/good-roofer solution is! I am not sure if the photo makes it apparent, but most of our roofs are shed roofs. Can we still have a ridge vent? (maybe a dumb ?, but I am full of them) Our house was remodeled ~22 years ago and the roof is that old and I am told that the style was up to code for that period (or that the hot roof code was not enforced after enacted a few years before)

FYI The suspects (architect, builder) have left the state or are no longer alive. Only the ex-homeowner as an eyewitness.....

Thanks again!

[colonial carpentry]

I am assuming,that the windows in question are the ones on the upper section of your house.If you had an "alluminum drip edge/flashing "installed on top of the windows it would eliminate the leaky windows with out the expense of adding an eaves system.

[noeaves]

Thanks for the reply. The roofers and general contractors who are bidding on our job are now recommending pulling off the roof and adding 2 types of insulation that would add up to "R-50". The common idea is that the thick insulation would eliminate the need for venting, therefore we would not add any. Also, the leaking over the windows have been explained as dripiing through the nailholes that is occuring because we do not have adequate waterproofing. Does this sound right?

[mjpliv]

You might want to check the warrenty requirement of your roof shingles with regard to required ventilation.

[colonial carpentry]

Yes that does sound about right.The windows are facing some extreme exposure any driving rain is going to get right behind your siding if the windows do not have a j-channel or flashing across the top.that and check to see if the windows were installed properly,it sounds extreme but i have seen fixed panel windows installed upside down( weep holes should be at the bottom),if they are at the top your window will leak like a sieve,Kinda like the toronto maple leafs goalies in the play-offs!

[noeaves]

The 2 contractors that have visited in the past week to give us estimates have suggested building on eaves. I would like this if it can be done without an engineering nightmare and without a terrific expense. The first suggested 6 inches all around, the 2nd suggested "more than 6 inches". Any suggestions on how to finesse eaves when there are none? I have not begun to look at design, I am just concerned about function.

Unfortunately, it is too late in the season already for this project if we add eaves. Snow will be here in 8 weeks and the rains come first. Plus the contractors are busy. We are planning on shoveling all winter to keep the water out.

Thanks for y'all's help.

[Rich]

To me it seems pretty easy.. tear the fascia off - scab on a 2x6 about 4' up and overhang 6-24" - build a soffit and put in your vents (continuous).
As Grumpy mentioned - you will need to see if you can get baffles between the insulation and sheathing. If there isn't enough room between the insulation and sheathing then you should put the baffles in.. if there is 2" or so of space then you'll probably only need it at the outside face of wall for about 2' up slope.

[grumpydasmurf]

Sorry I hadn't responded. It's been very very busy in the real world.

First yank off the roof deck, all of the plywood. I am betting you will see insulation stuffed in the entire rafter pocket. Ontop of the existing rafters fasten a 2x2. Ontop of thhe 2x2 fasten a new plywood roof deck, 1/2" minimum. build out the overhangs. 6" is ok. Make sure a 2" continuous soffit vent is installed. Combine that with a continuous ridge vent. Your going to need to install new gable fascia to compensate for the 2" lift in rafter height.

This is a bullet proof method of creating ventilation. Do it! Do it!

[noeaves]

Thanks! I will digest your advice and talk to the roofer(s) and contractor(s). Thanks a million!