doyle
07-06-2004, 06:40 PM
I had a fellow forum member ask me for tips on installing the SmartSide Panels on his 20x24 garage, After typing a long reply, I thought other members might also benefit from my experience of installing hundreds (or is it thousands?) of sheets.
This siding is catching on rather quickly. Now my main competition is starting to use it, getting away from the Masonite-type junk.
Maybe I could get a "sticky" on this one, Rich?
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for the nice comments about my buildings. You will find that SmartSide panels are really easy to work with, provided you have a helper, since they do tend to be a little flimsy before they are nailed up. Don't let my choice of words scare you off, it's just the nature of the material, mainly the 3/8"-7/16" thickness that makes them not want to lay flat against the wall while you are nailing them up.
It crucial that they be level along the bottom and that the shiplap seams line up perfectly before nailing the first nail. It can be kinda hard to nail and hold all at one time, but with a helper it goes a little better. With 2 helpers it's a breeze! When it's lined up perfectly, quickly put 2 or 3 nails in, and your helper(s) can relax while you finish nailing the rest of the sheet.
Make sure your building is perfectly square also....you will be able to tell on the first sheet. I would install Z-flashing along the bottom of all the walls to help hold up the siding. I do this on any project that places the siding near ground level as a precautionary measure. As long as you install the Z-flashing level, the siding will be much easier to hold into position.
It doesn't matter whether you install the panels left-to-right or right-to-left, but I have found that since I'm right-handed, it's easier for me to install them left-to-right...for whatever reason...lol. However, you will have to start on the corner of the building that the studs were laid out from, in order for the sheets to land correctly on a stud.
Now for the main installation tips....
1. The first sheet of each wall should have 7/8" cut off the "overlap" side. This will cause the opposite (or "underlap") side to land in the correct place on the stud. You should have about 3/4" of stud showing on the underlap side of each sheet. The main reason for this is so that you will have the full thickness of the siding to nail through as opposed to nailing through the two thinner pieces of shiplap.
When you reach the other end of the building, the sheet should line up perfectly without cutting since you have a structure built in 4ft increments. (smart guy)
2. Will you be using a nailgun? If so, always make sure nobody is standing behind the siding while nailing. If you miss the stud, the nail will shoot all the way across the garage. No kidding! Even at 80 pounds of pressure, the amount of pressure I usally use to shoot the 2" galvanized rink shank nails. If you don't have a nailgun, I suggest buying or renting one. This product is very dense making it really hard. Becaause of this it's real easy to bend nails or send them flying off.
3. Once again, make sure the shiplap joints look the same distance apart from top to bottom before nailing. If you get one sheet off, they will all be off afterwards. There is a small line built into the shiplap (underlap) edge that you can use as a guideline. Don't cover this line up, but use it as a guide....butt right up to it with your overlap edge.
4. Use galvanized ring shank nails. Be sure and penetrate the studs at least 1-1/2". I use 2" nails since I don't apply any kind of insulation board.
5. Any areas taller than 8 feet? Probably your gable areas. Z-flashing is a must for the top of the 8ft sheets before applying the gable siding. Don't just cover the joint with a trim board or you will have water-damaged siding.
6. Caulk, Caulk, Caulk. Be sure and caulk any nook and cranny, joint, nailhead, hole, or anywhere water can find its' way in or behind your siding. You will have a very professional-looking job if you take your time on the caulk and caulk everything. Go back over the whole building one more time looking for any nailheads you may have missed.
7. Use the grooves in the siding as a guide to nail into all the studs that you can't see. That's why they are there. Just stay 3/4"to 1" to the left (or right) of the groove and you will hit the stud every time.
8. If your studs are on 24" centers (which I doubt they are), then nail the bottom and top edges of the siding every 16" into your top and bottom caps so it won't bow out away from the wall.
9. Take your time, be careful, and have fun!
Doyle
This siding is catching on rather quickly. Now my main competition is starting to use it, getting away from the Masonite-type junk.
Maybe I could get a "sticky" on this one, Rich?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the nice comments about my buildings. You will find that SmartSide panels are really easy to work with, provided you have a helper, since they do tend to be a little flimsy before they are nailed up. Don't let my choice of words scare you off, it's just the nature of the material, mainly the 3/8"-7/16" thickness that makes them not want to lay flat against the wall while you are nailing them up.
It crucial that they be level along the bottom and that the shiplap seams line up perfectly before nailing the first nail. It can be kinda hard to nail and hold all at one time, but with a helper it goes a little better. With 2 helpers it's a breeze! When it's lined up perfectly, quickly put 2 or 3 nails in, and your helper(s) can relax while you finish nailing the rest of the sheet.
Make sure your building is perfectly square also....you will be able to tell on the first sheet. I would install Z-flashing along the bottom of all the walls to help hold up the siding. I do this on any project that places the siding near ground level as a precautionary measure. As long as you install the Z-flashing level, the siding will be much easier to hold into position.
It doesn't matter whether you install the panels left-to-right or right-to-left, but I have found that since I'm right-handed, it's easier for me to install them left-to-right...for whatever reason...lol. However, you will have to start on the corner of the building that the studs were laid out from, in order for the sheets to land correctly on a stud.
Now for the main installation tips....
1. The first sheet of each wall should have 7/8" cut off the "overlap" side. This will cause the opposite (or "underlap") side to land in the correct place on the stud. You should have about 3/4" of stud showing on the underlap side of each sheet. The main reason for this is so that you will have the full thickness of the siding to nail through as opposed to nailing through the two thinner pieces of shiplap.
When you reach the other end of the building, the sheet should line up perfectly without cutting since you have a structure built in 4ft increments. (smart guy)
2. Will you be using a nailgun? If so, always make sure nobody is standing behind the siding while nailing. If you miss the stud, the nail will shoot all the way across the garage. No kidding! Even at 80 pounds of pressure, the amount of pressure I usally use to shoot the 2" galvanized rink shank nails. If you don't have a nailgun, I suggest buying or renting one. This product is very dense making it really hard. Becaause of this it's real easy to bend nails or send them flying off.
3. Once again, make sure the shiplap joints look the same distance apart from top to bottom before nailing. If you get one sheet off, they will all be off afterwards. There is a small line built into the shiplap (underlap) edge that you can use as a guideline. Don't cover this line up, but use it as a guide....butt right up to it with your overlap edge.
4. Use galvanized ring shank nails. Be sure and penetrate the studs at least 1-1/2". I use 2" nails since I don't apply any kind of insulation board.
5. Any areas taller than 8 feet? Probably your gable areas. Z-flashing is a must for the top of the 8ft sheets before applying the gable siding. Don't just cover the joint with a trim board or you will have water-damaged siding.
6. Caulk, Caulk, Caulk. Be sure and caulk any nook and cranny, joint, nailhead, hole, or anywhere water can find its' way in or behind your siding. You will have a very professional-looking job if you take your time on the caulk and caulk everything. Go back over the whole building one more time looking for any nailheads you may have missed.
7. Use the grooves in the siding as a guide to nail into all the studs that you can't see. That's why they are there. Just stay 3/4"to 1" to the left (or right) of the groove and you will hit the stud every time.
8. If your studs are on 24" centers (which I doubt they are), then nail the bottom and top edges of the siding every 16" into your top and bottom caps so it won't bow out away from the wall.
9. Take your time, be careful, and have fun!
Doyle