Tolerance for out-of-plumb beam?

[politics123]

Hi... I'd like to finish my basement... while measuring, I noticed the central beam wasn't plumb. Not sure if it was installed incorrectly, or shifted.

My question is: Are there tolerances for beams being installed out of plumb?

The whole beam looks like its out of plumb, but one end is far worse than the other. That one end is leaning over between 3/4 and 1", whereas the other end is leaning over less. I attached a picture of the beam and the end where it leans the most

The beam runs the length of the basement (about 35'), and is a doubled 1 3/4" x 12" beam. (so.. total width of 3.5", total run of 35'). There are four adjustable steel posts (set in concrete) that support the beam... they are reasonably plumb, except for the one closest to the "bad" end, which is out of plumb about 1" in the opposite direction of the beam. In the picture, the beam leans 1" the left, while the post I was standing next to take the picture is leaning about 1" to the right. Both of the beams that are doubled together are leaning over.

Guidance appreciated!

Thanks!
Michael

[RTF]

Are they continuous? Are there any joints on either side the length of the span? What is the load above it? By your description and the picture, it looks like two 1-3/4" x 11-3/4" LVLs nailed together. The look undersized and are probably overloaded.

[politics123]

Yes... lam beams... there are two 1 3/4" nailed together. The beams are continuous and run ~35' in length. There are four metal posts in total supporting the beam. Also, one end of the beam (the end that's leaning the most) is sitting on concrete wall.

When you say joints, do you mean in the floor joists?... If so, no joints, the joists are continuous and run from basement wall to basement wall.

The 1st floor joists are running from left to right in the picture. Those joists span the entire basement width -- 32' wide and sitting on the concrete wall on each end... the beam is in the middle to provide support.

Unfortunately, I don't know how to calculate actual load. It's a 2 story house with a steep 12x12 roof. House is roughly 55' deep by 32' wide, but since the beam length is only 35' of the depth, I'd say it's carrying its share of 2240 sq ft (32x35x2). The walls (aka: concrete) are carrying a good chunk of the weight, right?

[RTF]

In looking at several manufacturers span charts, it is clear to me your beam is undersized.It should have been a minimum of 14" deep or a triple LVL beam. In my opinion either the load above on it or the connection at the steel columns is causing it to roll. Yes the concrete walls are carrying their share of the load, but so is this beam.

You may want to consult a local Structural Engineer for his opinion and recommendation, it would be money well spent before you start your project.

[politics123]

Thanks for the guidance. I did have an architectural engineer come out and take a look at the beam. He said the beam is only 75% capacity (@55lbs per floor) when installed plumb. At a 10% tilt, it doesn't work.

He felt there were two problems with the connections (as you suspected!). Apparently, they didn't attach well the floor joists and the beam, and he felt that floating the joists on top of the beam created a hinge. Recommendation to use simpson H2.5 clips ("hurricane clips") on every other joist.

He was also concerned because the post supporting the beam wasn't really connected to the beam itself (just a lag screw), and he felt that was a hinge as well. The engineer wanted to see a saddle-type connection, but wasn't sure they make any that can be installed after-the-fact.

Any ideas how to improve the post-to-beam connection? Alas, the adjustable part of the posts are encased in concrete... so I'm not sure how to solve the problem.

Thanks!

[RTF]

Go online and download the Simpson Strong Tie product manual. I know they make saddle connections, and I believe the make a type that can be applied "after the connection has been made" as in your situation. If not you can have a local steel fab shop make you the connection plates as necessary. Another option would be to add an additional column.
Make sure you use Simpson nails when you install the clips.

Here's that link: www.strongtie.com