View Full Version : Basement Framing
NYbuilder
02-05-2011, 08:09 AM
Hi, I'm just about to start finishing my basement and I have some questions about how I could potentially save $ and reduce toxins.
I know that typically a PT plate is used below the walls. What if I used a regular 2x4 on 30# building felt instead? I don't like the idea of using PT lumber indoors. I may also paint the slab with epoxy? paint. This would put an extra barrier between the concrete and the wood.
Also, when I frame the floor, I would normally use PT for the sleepers. Same thing there. Paint the floor, put down 30# building felt, and then just use untreated sleepers. What do you think?
I saw on another thread a link to Dricore. I looked into it and it looks like a great alternative to the standard plastic/sleepers/plywood buildup. I like that it breathes, unlike the typical basement floor.
I realize that I can use metal studs in the basement and avoid PT alltogether, but I am far more familiar with wood framing and would like to stick with it.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
In basements I prefer metal studs, but I have used both. I would still use the pt plate, hell what's a few more toxins. There are pros and cons to DRIcore, you need to research the product, it is a chip-board based product and moisture loves chip-board. In a basement moisture is the enemy and my suggestion is to lean towards the pt plate. Especially where you live on LI.
One option is to install pt 2x sleepers and plywood decking for your subfloor and build your walls on top of the subfloor out of regular 2 x 4 wood or 3-5/8 metal studs.
Don_P
02-05-2011, 02:38 PM
If you want to investigate lower toxicity, I'll push borates again. Borate treated lumber has low toxicity but the borate can leach out if there is a moist "sink" that it can diffuse to. Concrete is a potential sink but the wood must be saturated to mobilize the borate. It is approved for mudsills. A break like sill seal or a floor paint would do the job as well. I know nothing about it but timbersil is another possibility.
NYbuilder
02-06-2011, 05:14 AM
Thanks RTF & Don_P,
I didn't realize that Dricore was chipboard based. That rules it out for me. I'll look into borate-treated lumber as a substitute for ACQ. ACQ is supposedly an improvement over the old CCA, but I still hear that builders don't like overdoing its use indoors. At the end of the day, I may just go with steel studs and eliminate all toxicity concerns. (I have a youngster which is the primary reason for the concern).
Thanks for both of your insightful replies... you two are the best!
joecaption
02-06-2011, 06:17 AM
You spending a lot of time worrying about something that will do 0 harm.
The new pressure treated ACQ wood is treated with copper, plus it's going to be covered over with sheetrock. It will do no harm to anyone unless your son chews on it before it goes in.
Then you say your going to use an epoxy paint on the floor. Read the can and see just how much VOC's are in that product. Even the paints on the walls and ceiling will have some off gassing unless you buy some of the 0 VOC paints.
Ever have your basement checked for Radon Gas?
You could spend your whole life worrying about every little thing.
I've checked on Dri Core before and it's made in Canada and can be special ordered at Home Depot but is extreamly expensive once you pay for the product plus the shipping.
NYbuilder
02-06-2011, 06:35 AM
Thanks Joecaption,
You make some great points. I'm from the era of widespread CCA use, hence my resistance to PT lumber. I just did some reading about ACQ and you're right, it's mostly copper and ammonia, with no arsenic. I'll have to look into the VOC's in the paints, starting with the various Drylok products. And Radon... forgot about that, too. I haven't heard of anyone in the area having it, or ever even testing for it. But given the inexpensive kits available today, it can't hurt to test for it. Thanks for the info!
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