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Old 09-20-2006, 10:51 PM   #1
tadtv1
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Default Tweaking crown molding

If I have an inside corner that's not 90- maybe more like 92 degrees, how do I tweak the cuts for a tighter fit? Do I have to cut each piece of the corner at maybe 44 degrees or just one of them? ( this is when the crown is angled on the saw w/crown stops) OR if i'm laying the molding FLAT on the table, which angle do I tweak- the bevel or the miter? Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:52 AM   #2
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If you're cutting it standing up you can tweak the miter plus or minus. If the corner is 92 degrees I would use 46 degrees as the miter. If you're laying the crown flat and cutting it you'll need to change both miter and bevel. You can use the crown molding calculator located here
http://www.construction-resource.com...wn-molding.php
to help with the different angles and how the wall angle will effect the miter and bevel.
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:40 AM   #3
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Or learn to "cope" with it. Haha.

Good luck though. Crown can get frustrating.
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:45 PM   #4
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Honestly David - coping is the best method for stain grade crown molding that will give the best look for the longest period of time.
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:57 PM   #5
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I agree 100%.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:11 AM   #6
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But you'd wanna cut the correct miter/bevel, to give yourself the best line to cope to! And the pun made me groin. . .
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:15 PM   #7
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Not at all. When installing coped crown never ever nail off the last few feet of the wall piece until the coped piece is up against it. That gives you some wiggle room.

And get a Bosch digital angle finder. It will give you the correct miter and bevel for any angle corner. Cut it right the first time by using the proper tool.
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:17 PM   #8
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And I do disagree with Rich. Coping is never best. Cutting the proper angle, saturating the joint with glue like you should, and back-nailing the joint prior to installation is best. My crown joints never ever separate. The crown will pull away from the wall before the joint will crack.
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:36 AM   #9
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Then again, if the framing is too far off from a clean 90 degree angle and you end up with a bunch of odd crown angles the end product will look really funky--depending on how long your pieces are. You can either shoot the framer or cut clean 90s and somehow cheat the gap left between the molding and the wall.
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:23 AM   #10
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Yeah, you really just need to cope that thing. I would take your time. Check YouTube, there are a bunch of videos and such to help you along the way.
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Old 07-21-2008, 05:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon View Post
And I do disagree with Rich. Coping is never best. Cutting the proper angle, saturating the joint with glue like you should, and back-nailing the joint prior to installation is best. My crown joints never ever separate. The crown will pull away from the wall before the joint will crack.
You know I have actually changed some of the things I do with crown after reading some of Gary Katz's articles. I like his idea of using crown staples on the back to hold joints together (along with glue) and/or biscuits as well.
Anybody used the Clam Clamps? They look like they would work good for pre-assembling casing.
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:48 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon View Post
And get a Bosch digital angle finder. It will give you the correct miter and bevel for any angle corner. Cut it right the first time by using the proper tool.
Had one of those until my tool trailer was stolen. Then I found a Starrett angle finder. It's smaller and much easier to use since I cut using crown stops I don't need to worry about spring angles and adjusting both bevel and miter, just the miter. Not to mention the cost difference.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:45 AM   #13
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At the risk of pissing off some of the purists, how about installing the oblong blocks at the inside corners?
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Old 02-19-2009, 05:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjpliv View Post
At the risk of pissing off some of the purists, how about installing the oblong blocks at the inside corners?
What actually counts the most is what the project looks like when you're done.
If you piss off a purist they can always get glad in the same undies they got mad in
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:52 PM   #15
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Just did a crown molding job in my living room. Always cut each corner at the same angle. Never try to add a degree to one side without the other. I agree, stay away from coping. Do the math and make the proper cut.
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Old 09-25-2009, 08:09 PM   #16
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Practice makes perfect, keep cutting you'll get it.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:26 AM   #17
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Question crown mouldings for a wall that is not flat but rounded

I am an amateur woodworker and I have been working with some crown moulding in my living room and hallway. all the walls are straight except for the back wall which is around the bedroom. I am not even sure how to word this to make it clear . It seems that it has a rounded corner. help me if you can or ask me other questions and hopefully I can answer them. I had never tried to do crown moulding and might have bit off more than I can handle but I am nearing the end and now very frustrated. thank you bob or frustrated woodworker from michigan.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:31 AM   #18
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not even sure how I go about getting an answer from someone - that is how frustrated I am on this job.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:32 PM   #19
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How much of a curve are we talking here? Try to think in terms of a radius. Is this an inside or outside corner?
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